Mondo mode =2wd / 4wd

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
ming

ming

SPACE TWOT
Posts
11,977
Location
PLANIT ZOG
Um. . . .jist your thoughts of ways to make ya gaylander 2wd[known for ref,as mondo mode] un 4wd , , , ,yer mod suggestions. . . .:) :) :)
 
LR1796 said:
always do Ming :D

Been switching between mondo mode for about last five years, my prop is like new, FL is year 2000
Click to expand...
nice one . . .but it would be good ta git this mod done , we jist need sumone daft enough ta do it. . . .fink me un flippy mad scientist are workin on it. . . .:D :D :D
 
Would this be the Nissan Mond-e-o model/hybrid.

Saw the plans on other fred but how much would Nissan parts cost ££££

For a realistic mod it would have to be a nominal fee to be viable

If something was fabricated from the original front half of the prop then it would keep cost down.

cats Eyes was getting work done on the front CV joint of the prop. Im sure she would donate some body parts...Hippo parts that is.

Even if it was quick release mechanism, like dog clutch, not via electromagnet but split pin of some description with torsional strength.
 
Was readin a web site the other day about some foreign bloke who has done this and is currently running a "prototype"

operates by means of a dash mounted switch and solenoids ??

will try to find the site again and post the link.

Not sure of the condition of my VCU so was thinking of going "Mondo"

Is removing the prop as easy as it looks ??? Do you need to mark the shaft for refitting ??? Anyone done a step by set guide or how to on this ??


Chris
 
mechanical systems are a no go - and most dog-clutches wont handle the power! power - hippoo - lol.

easiest bet is to use summat that already exists. I only suggested Nissan stuff - cos i got the manual and one i can look at. It also must be capable of taking the load.
 
c13tay said:
Is removing the prop as easy as it looks ??? Do you need to mark the shaft for refitting ??? Anyone done a step by set guide or how to on this ??


Chris
Click to expand...

Heinz manwell will take you through it. All literature says you should mark the prop. I did this initially but it makes no difference.

The prop is balanced for centrifugal forces independently of the IRD/final drive so makes no odds if drivetrain is up to scratch

6 Torx bolts/hex nuts at front
4 hex bolts for bearings
4Torx bolts/hex nuts for rear

Use axle stands to raise all four wheels off ground, rotate prop for each nut in turn to get access with spanner.

Start at front work backwards, fitting is reverse of this. they are not that heavy just awkward as they bend in two places where bearings are. An assistant makes it easier but can be done single handed, or use a small jack to take the load, esp in the middle section when releasing 4 bolts
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
mechanical systems are a no go - and most dog-clutches wont handle the power! power - hippoo - lol.

easiest bet is to use summat that already exists. I only suggested Nissan stuff - cos i got the manual and one i can look at. It also must be capable of taking the load.
Click to expand...

Yes but, yes but, no but.......

The weakest point on the prop has to be the CV assemblage, followed by UJ joints.

Surely with your engineering background you could devise a suitably sized quick release pin/UJ of some description.

I have the prop removal down to about 30min work. The time to fit it isnt the problem its carting the prop around with you in case you need 4wd. If there was just one lttle part that could be easily removed/refitted when needed it would solve all our problems
 
Dropped my prop shaft not long ago and it was quite straightforward. You ony need one front and one rear wheel jacking to turn the shaft. 17mm open ender at rear as there is no room to get a ring spanner on. 13mm socket or ring at front. Rave advises not to drop VCU first under any circumstances - do both ends first. Took me about an hour as a first time job. Quick question -does all this VCU stuff come about cause Landrover designed the 80/20 split in drive? Why not stick to proven disco technology - too much dosh????
Smiles (as Mondo calls me)
 
Miles000 said:
does all this VCU stuff come about cause Landrover designed the 80/20 split in drive?
Click to expand...

As I understand it - the 80/20 split was only on the early hippoos. The later ones where/are 1/1. this "stuff" is because its a crap design and prone to seizing/not working. Just trying to find a better system:D
 
yu disagreeing, Minge?
how wud yu describe the VCU design?
I only sayin wot I think from an engineering prospective , it leaves lots be desired. I aint pushing slitty stuff - if the Vauxhall system works and is easier to adapt - go fur that.
Surely the whole purpose of this thread (and similar) is just to improve the hippoo?
 
Maybe lateral thinking using diff locker technology? Free wheeling rear diff that can be "locked" to produce drive to rear diff drive shaft(s) when required? Something like - http://www.kamdiffs.com/pdf/DIFLOK~4b.pdf. If we have the technology to lock both wheels through the diff at the throw of a switch and to take the umph, it surely could be utilised?
 
I have got confused now - as to which thread is for the switch mech!
But as I found this thread first - here we go - a bit more techy info fur ya to peruse......

The Driveline

The X-Trail uses an electronic four-wheel drive system that owes more than just a hint of its design to the original ground-breaking Skyline GT-R system. Like the GT-R, it uses a wet multi-plate clutch to vary the torque split between the front and rear wheels, however, in the Skyline, the driveline was predominantly rear-wheel drive with torque directed frontwards only as necessary. In the X-Trail the opposite applies - the car is predominantly front-wheel drive, with torque directed rearwards as required.

1378_14mg.jpg
diagram shows the layout. A transfer case turns the drive through 90 degrees, sending it along a propeller shaft to the rear diff. In the extended nose of this differential assembly is a wet multiplate clutch ('coupling') that apportions torque to the rear wheels. With the coupling unlocked, no torque turns the rear wheels - the car is pure front-wheel drive. With the coupling fully locked, the front/rear drive is 57:43, a ratio determined by the transfer case. Thus the greatest amount of torque that can be directed through the rear wheels is 43 per cent.

1378_15mg.jpg


The electronic control system uses inputs from the accelerator opening (not throttle opening - that doesn't vary in its opening angle linearly with the accelerator, remember!) and engine speed. Additionally, an accelerometer (g-sensor) inputs its signal into the control unit. It's not completely clear from Nissan literature, but we assume that the g-sensor measures longitudinal acceleration, as its input is also used by the ABS part of the system.

1378_16mg.jpg


I still have no details of the Frontera system, but am still looking - if anyone else can help - please do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Atomician
Fl1 with selectable 4wd?
Replies
2
Views
357
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel
Snaggapuss
the dreaded limp mode
Replies
16
Views
1K
Snaggapuss
Snaggapuss
N
Wheel resistance
2
Replies
39
Views
3K
steve2286w
steve2286w
T
Freelander 2 (LR2) Couple of issues with my 07 FL2.
Replies
5
Views
736
TyTheOwl
T
H
Worth it or can of worms?
Replies
14
Views
2K
Nodge68
Nodge68
Back
Top