Changing 200TDi Timing chain probs.

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The Mad Hat Man

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member
LZIR Despatch Agent
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Location
Embasinga stocæ
Only the usual things.....

Has anyone local to Basingstoke got an Oxy/Acetylene torch. I have the usual problem of a bolt sheared and need to heat it or weld a nut on the head. Also does anyone have a damper puller I can borrow?
 
I managed to get the crank pulley off with a 2ft bar and hammer but it took about 3hrs grazed knuckles and a lot of swearing!!
 
Corr you splashed out!!
Would definitely be good to have the correct pin for the flywheel housing as it can't be locked with a drill bit, and I'm sure the puller will come in handy for other uses :)
 
ffs
There's no need to lock the flywheel, but if you really must, you just need a wading plug and a 5mm drill bit.
The IP just needs a 9.5mm drill bit.
The cam don't need locking.
The pulley needs a bit of bar with 3 holes and 3 M8 HT bolts and nuts.

Fook payin £128!
 
Prob is, Trew, I am doing it in a housing estate with no power, no air tools, no bar and no drilling facility.

Oh & with 3 sheared bolts! 2 of which were like it before I started :rolleyes:. Any ideas how to remove them?
 
Looking at stud extractors.....

Anyone got personal experience of the "best" type - ie most successful?

a)
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b)
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c)
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wont work - studs seized in place - if (one at least) has sheared with a socket ont head, then a screwdriver isnt going to work. and drilling holes is a prob - see post #9.
I am going over with an ickle blowtorch, but aint convinced it will produce enough heat.

We are talking here about the water pump/ timing cover bolts on a 200TDi.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Any ideas how to remove them?
Click to expand...

Are they bolts or set screws? If they're bolts, undo the rest of them, slide/lever the timing cover off what are now studs (in effect) and remove them with mucho heat and some vice grips once the timing cover is off.

If they're set screws... lots of luck, cordless drill and a seriously hard drill bit, reverse tap and screw a reverse thread 'bolt out' type tool in (you won't weld to the old set screw with the timing case in place without melting the timing cover as it's ally)

Have you got an exploded pic of the timing cover showing bolts and locations?
 
Adz said:
Are they bolts or set screws? If they're bolts, undo the rest of them, slide/lever the timing cover off what are now studs (in effect) and remove them with mucho heat and some vice grips once the timing cover is off.

If they're set screws... lots of luck, cordless drill and a seriously hard drill bit, reverse tap and screw a reverse thread 'bolt out' type tool in (you won't weld to the old set screw with the timing case in place without melting the timing cover as it's ally)

Have you got an exploded pic of the timing cover showing bolts and locations?
Click to expand...

Sorry guys - thought I had explained it better.

There are 3 sheared bolts (due to electrolytic corrosion between the water pump/ Timing cover bolts and the Alloy housing) On the bolt, I have sheared, there is about 15mm showing, but Mole grips wont touch it. The other two bolts are below the surface of the timing housing.
Not sure I can lever the cover off without distorting it at least.

will try and get a pic
 
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