90 Wheel and bumper refurb

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R

Repoman

Member
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Evening all - my first post, hope you can help.

First a bit about my LR - I have recently become the proud owner of a 1992 red and white Defender 90 2.5 tdi hard top. This vehicle has been in my family since new and my sister and I jointly inherited it when my Dad passed away a couple of years ago, and I just bought her out of her share.

It has only done 57K miles from new, been serviced regularly,never abused or modded and it has been garaged all of it's life. I spent a couple of hours T cutting the paint today and it now really does look fantastic...apart from a couple of things: the wheels, the front bumper and the panel below the rear door (can someone advise of the correct name for this?)

Basically the wheels (standard, ivory) are a bit rusty and need smartening up. I have a tin of the correct ivory paint which came with the car - can this be brushed on after flatting and priming the wheels. Any tips?

Likewise the bumper and rear panel. These are a bit scabby and need a repaint. I was planning on wire brushing down, flatting and hand painting with smooth black Hammerite. Sound OK? Any advice?

The other area with a few rust spots is the joining seam between the hard top and the body. I'm thinking of treating with some rust stopper and touching in by hand in red?

Any advice before I start would be very welcome.

I was originally going to sell it but having driven it around for a week or two and seen how good it looks I think I'm going to keep it. It's something of a family heirloom and it seems a shame to sell it:)
 
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Classic. Hang onto it. IF you sold it you would regret it. Dont listen to MC she doesnt know what style is :D keep the ivory wheels, they look great standard if kept very well.

I dont know a huge amount about painting pointers but from experience it is difficult to get a good finish by brush. I have always sprayed. I would be inclined to wire brush/sand the rust spots off the bumper, key the surface and spray the whole thing. If you do it in patches it may look rubbish. But i suppose you could try that and if it looks cack atleast you can do the whole thing.

Is the red non-metallic? I assume so due to the age. this should make touch-ups easier. Might be worth adopting the same aproach to the wheels if there is not too much rust on them.

Welcome by the way.

G
 
Repoman said:
Evening all - my first post, hope you can help.

First a bit about my LR - I have recently become the proud owner of a 1992 red and white Defender 90 2.5 tdi hard top. This vehicle has been in my family since new and my sister and I jointly inherited it when my Dad passed away a couple of years ago, and I just bought her out of her share.

It has only done 57K miles from new, been serviced regularly,never abused or modded and it has been garaged all of it's life. I spent a couple of hours T cutting the paint today and it now really does look fantastic...apart from a couple of things: the wheels, the front bumper and the panel below the rear door (can someone advise of the correct name for this?)

Basically the wheels (standard, ivory) are a bit rusty and need smartening up. I have a tin of the correct ivory paint which came with the car - can this be brushed on after flatting and priming the wheels. Any tips?

Likewise the bumper and rear panel. These are a bit scabby and need a repaint. I was planning on wire brushing down, flatting and hand painting with smooth black Hammerite. Sound OK? Any advice?

The other area with a few rust spots is the joining seam between the hard top and the body. I'm thinking of treating with some rust stopper and touching in by hand in red?

Any advice before I start would be very welcome.

I was originally going to sell it but having driven it around for a week or two and seen how good it looks I think I'm going to keep it. It's something of a family heirloom and it seems a shame to sell it:)
Click to expand...

The panel below the rear door is the rear crossmember. This is made of steel so can be tidied up like the front bumper and painted with hammerite. I would not go for a gloss finish as it may look a little over the top. You can paint over the rust spots and its a reasonable option.

The joining seam between the body and the hard top is called the body capping. This is also made of steel and they do tend to be a weakness. Seal any leaks first. Mask off the bodywork and it can be hand painted... try a test area inside first and make sure you are happy. If not, a spray finish. You should use a primer first to give the paint something to grip onto. You can thin it for hand painting and use a decent brush. Speak to your paint man for advice. Dont polish or wax for at least a week as it will still be soft.

Wheels.... for a propper job you can have them shot blasted and given a coat of red oxide for about £10 a wheel. But tyres have to come off... I got mine done (I have 5 for sale £80) but if they are not to bad touch them up.

Consider getting the chasis wax oiled...

PS My son is looking for a nice red 90 with original spec if you think of selling.
 

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Thanks for the responses. Griffdowg, thanks for the welcome and MrJC thanks for the correct descriptions and advice too. I will have a go at it over the next couple of weeks.

I will soon be having a 1973 Alfa Giulia GTV residing in the garage so the Landy will be my daily driver (when I'm not cycling) so I would like to keep it in good shape.
 
Well as requested - and just to show it off really - here's some pics -

DSC01716_2.jpg


DSC01719-1.jpg


And here are the bits that need attention -

This is the worst wheel but they are all similar
DSC01717.jpg


DSC01718.jpg


DSC01721.jpg


So: there you go - a Land Rover - you may have seen one before:rolleyes:

Hopefully you will agree its looking pretty god for a 92:D
 
Very nice indeed :) .... that corner on the body capping could start leaking soon. Seal it from both sides. You are best with an 'etch primer' if you try and remove/reduce blisters from the aluminium. It can be used on steel as well. Plain primer will lift off aluminium after a while. I have used an electric sander to get the rough off and then a fine rub down. The blisters never quite go (I am not a body shop man) but a man on a galloping horse would not notice. Do the inside first as a test run.
 
Thats one good looking landy and your welcome to the madhouse. Iv had the same things to do on my 110, the front bumper comes off handy enough so wire brush it and then spray it with hammerite satin black (about a fiver a can in Halfords ). The rear crossmember is not easy to take off, so spend an hour masking up around it first then the same thing as the front bumper. Now for me that has worked very well and Im happy with the outcome as it still looks good two years afterwards. Im afraid I did not have as much luck with the wheels though, I could not find the same colour in Hammerite so I just sanded back the rust and sprayed them with another type of paint which was the same colour and after six weeks the rust was back. I have not bothered doing them again as Im hoping to put wolf rims on her sometime
 
Just checked my tin.... satin black hammerite is a very good match for the bumper. I did mine with a brush coz I am not spray trained. It looks okay.
You really do need those lovely 5 original wheels, blasted and primed that I have for sale in the 'for sale' section :) You can then get yours done and get most or all of your money back. Would you wear flip flops with a suit? Where abouts are you?
 

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JC those are disco steels are they not? His standard steels dont come anymore original.

Satin black is what I used on my rear x member recently. Easy to do and looks good. Not spray trained, but im pretty good ;)

G
 
JC - your wheels are tempting but as Griffdowg says they don't look to be original Defeneder steel ones and I'd like to keep it standard.

I'm actually not far from you (Glossop) either, so it could have been a match made in heaven...
 
Griffdowg said:
JC those are disco steels are they not? His standard steels dont come anymore original.


G
Click to expand...

Oh my goodness, I bought a fecking hybrid :eek:. I took it for granted I had original wheels... if only I had looked rather than presumed:doh:
I might get some standard wheel size mud/snow tyres on my Disco rims as I will never sell them :) oh well.... what a waste of primer.
 

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All looks really good! Lovely clean example.

I used a cheap own brand version of waxoyl for my rear cross member, all masked off and sprayed it once i'd jet washed into all the holes and cleared out all the mud. Looks clean!

Remember as with anything its all about the prep!
 
Years ago I used to subscribe to Car & Car Conversions (CCC) magazine.

One month on the front cover they had an Opel Manta which was completely original except the owner had fitted some after market wheels and the car with those wheels looked stunning.

Your Red truck deserves better than those standard wheels.

You can always keep them safe in the shed.
 
spuddog said:
Years ago I used to subscribe to Car & Car Conversions (CCC) magazine.

One month on the front cover they had an Opel Manta which was completely original except the owner had fitted some after market wheels and the car with those wheels looked stunning.

Your Red truck deserves better than those standard wheels.

You can always keep them safe in the shed.
Click to expand...

that magazine lives on in spirit in Practical Perfarmance Car, it even has Dave Walker writing for them
 
the wheels look really good if you paint them smooth black, (hammerite) if you were looking at a cheaper way than buying new one's.
 
Gilbo09 said:
the wheels look really good if you paint them smooth black, (hammerite) if you were looking at a cheaper way than buying new one's.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't you have to take the paint off them first, or could you get away with just the loose flakes and over them?
 
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