2003 td6 Range rover starting problems.

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colwint

New Member
Posts
10
Location
Aberdeenshire
Hello, my names Colin, and Ive got a startin problem with my rangie.
Between my independant garage, and my spending hours dredging through the threads on here we have made some progress but still not willing to start when it feels like it.
Problem first occurd in the morning (when cold) when it would turn over for 5-6 seconds before catching, then if you stopped it it would fall to start until it cooled down again.eventually it wouldn't start at all.
Garage got Bosch notebook on it low fuel pressure <120bar when cranking. New LP fuel pump fitted,Injector leak off test done(no problems there) fuel filter changed, and new Battery fitted.
Now its starting from cold again without nearly as much winding, but when you go back to it after its hot it doesn't want to know. After going right through the notebook today it is evident that the intake temp is 25deg C when the engine is stone cold, and 46degC after engine been stopped for 15 mins. this reading doesn't seem right to me?
The other fault code that has been ther from day and keeps reappearing after it has been cleard is code;-P2550. The garage found out today that it is:- torque management-input signal B- signal low.
Anyone got any ideas? As I am fast leaning towards a gallon of petrol & a box of matches! :mad:
 
Hi colwint, I have exactly the same problem, over the last few days it has been taking a longer time than useual to start, once started everything is fine, no power problems or anything like that it runs fine. IT has just failed to start on me while out shopping, the engine i would say was warm but absolutely no start. had to get AA out to it and he sprayed a little easystart in to the air intake and hey-presto it fired up. ran all the way home perfect. Have you got any info on what might be the problem ?
 
Yes, he plugged it in and no faults showed up, but he said that as it is not Land Rover specific that is sometimes the case.
 
I'm gonna guess that you have an injector going down. Get it plugged in at a landy specialist to confirm this. Crank sensor is also another option but a squirt of easy start wouldn't rectify this fault so I think it can be ruled out. (unlesss it started by pure fluke).
 
Thanks for the reply, I have been having alook around and some other guys have had similar problems and it turned out to be What they called a low pressure secondary fuel pump. Any ideas on this, I will obviously have to get it into Land Rover but I am trying to find out as much as I can before I apply for the mortgage.
 
My wife had a crank sensor fail on her BMW, but this caused it to cut out while running, touch wood but mine only seems to be a starting problem.
 
My wife had a crank sensor fail on her BMW but this caused it to cut out while running, touch wood, mine seems to be a starting problem
 
Hi Smithyzen,
I had a LP pump fitted, a HP pump regulator fitted to my range rover & t still did'nt sort it. My problem turned out to be 3x leaking injectors. The fuel pressure when the engine is cranking needs to be 312 Bar,(f my memory serves me right) I think you will fing that you will still achieve that pressure with 1 dud injector but you will most likely have 2 possibly more dud. I tested my injectors with the LP pump pumping only, piped the spills to bottles & turned the ignition on, the results was obvious within seconds.
Hope this helps, If you need any more info please dont hesitate to ask.

Colwint
 
colwint said:
Hi Smithyzen,
I had a LP pump fitted, a HP pump regulator fitted to my range rover & t still did'nt sort it. My problem turned out to be 3x leaking injectors. The fuel pressure when the engine is cranking needs to be 312 Bar,(f my memory serves me right) I think you will fing that you will still achieve that pressure with 1 dud injector but you will most likely have 2 possibly more dud. I tested my injectors with the LP pump pumping only, piped the spills to bottles & turned the ignition on, the results was obvious within seconds.
Hope this helps, If you need any more info please dont hesitate to ask.

Colwint
Click to expand...

It is possible that it's more than 1 injector like you say. On a normal 4 cylinder engine 1 is enough to prevent starting.

Smithyzen. I would have thought that if the lp pump was fecked it would be losing power while driving. Duff injectors often don't make the vehicle have any loss of power but just make the vehicle difficult to start (especially when warm). If it was the high pressure pump you could pull the plug off the regulator and see if it makes any difference to starting.
 
just found this thread- having trouble warm starting 2003 rr 3l deisel.
The dealer in estonia think they are god and are no help-any idea what the problem is and how i can steer them to fix it- like how do the test the injectors? (this is my first diesel)
do they leek inside or outside the motor? is it a visable problem.
does this model need this relay installed to trick motor to think it is cold
Andy
 
fixed, 2 injectors playing upsomthing to do with backflow 60 and 90cc/min should be around 20 and camshaft sensor replced..
 
Hi i have a 2004 range rover td6, it has recently developed running issues when warm, under load and sometimes steady throttle it goes into limp mode and flags up fuel system check, sometimes it cuts out, sometimes not, also it does not start after cutting out for a while but also can amd does start up straight away after cutting out??!! This now is beginning to baffle me as i have my own snap on solus ultra scanner and also used my friends one above mine with power probe and oscilliscope, it reads the same code every time p1190 fuel rail pressure control and when trying to start after cutting out p1190 fuel rail pressure control under cranking? I have changed an injector, fuel pressure switch and regulator on pump, power probed all injectors, cam sensor, replaced crank sensor (had slight blip) checked lift pump under seats, checked 30a fuses in ecu box under bonnet, i have tried starting with fuses for fuel pumps out and using live data is noticable when they are re inserted as fuel pressure goes from 0.98 bar to 3.98 bar then car starts so am ruling lift pump and in line pump out, i have changed fuel filter and and about at the end of my wits as i am running out of options and am thinking is it the high pressure pump on the engine, but have also ran using live data and it seems to be performing ok so what else can i check before it comes to a nasty end (only joking) problems only seem to develop when it warms up as it peforms extreemly well when cold!!
 
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