dantheman4.6
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cant find under search for some reason question is what oil to use in 1997 range rover 4.6?
can i top up with 10/ 40?
can i top up with 10/ 40?
what oil?
- Thread starter dantheman4.6
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dantheman4.6
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seen pn previous thread people saying semi has caused tapping in engine now decided to do oil change what should i put in? any suggestion much appreciated.....
v8kenny
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20/50 - used it for years in V8's with no probs
I use Lucas racing oil from the states - if it's good enough for Nascar then it's good enough for me
I use Lucas racing oil from the states - if it's good enough for Nascar then it's good enough for me
mines up for an oil change and im thinking of going a different route to 10w/40 semi.
is 20/50 a semi or just plain old mineral oil?
v8kenny
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20/50 is mineral oil
It's an old fashioned oil for what is basically an old fashioned engine (Buick V8)
The Lucas stuff has special additives which help the oil to cling to metal - fair shuts noisy tappets up !
I swear by it, but that's just my humble opinion
It's an old fashioned oil for what is basically an old fashioned engine (Buick V8)
The Lucas stuff has special additives which help the oil to cling to metal - fair shuts noisy tappets up !
I swear by it, but that's just my humble opinion
classicmac
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mine was serviced recently by an enthusiast he swore on using a synthetic ,i thought this may be to thin 20/50 sounded more right to me is this the thicker mineral oil as stated above thought of putting it in mine
v8kenny
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This is the stuff I use :-
Lucas High Spec 20/50 20w50 Racing Oil 2.5 US gallons - eBay Accessories, Motorcycle Parts Accessories, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 30-Oct-07 09:46:58 GMT)
Give Phil a phone and he will do you a better deal than on ebay
2 x 2.5 us gallons costs about £53.00 delivered - that's about 19 litres, enough for 3 oil changes
Lucas High Spec 20/50 20w50 Racing Oil 2.5 US gallons - eBay Accessories, Motorcycle Parts Accessories, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 30-Oct-07 09:46:58 GMT)
Give Phil a phone and he will do you a better deal than on ebay
2 x 2.5 us gallons costs about £53.00 delivered - that's about 19 litres, enough for 3 oil changes
20/50 is mineral oil
It's an old fashioned oil for what is basically an old fashioned engine (Buick V8)
The Lucas stuff has special additives which help the oil to cling to metal - fair shuts noisy tappets up !
I swear by it, but that's just my humble opinion
or so it seemed!
Racing Fully Synthetic 20/50 Engine oil 4.5 Lts - eBay MG, Classic Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 22-Oct-07 10:34:37 BST)
v8kenny
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Well if you must have synthetic then buy it from there then for £32.50 - or you could always buy the same stuff from Dukeries engineering for £18.95 !
BTW, you won't need additives with any of the above oils - they are already in it
BTW, you won't need additives with any of the above oils - they are already in it
dont get me wrong!
im not bothered about synthetic, i just making the point that i too was under the impression the 20/50 wasnt synthetic and then i found that!!
im happy to try good old fashioned 20/50.
clutchdust
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You should use 20/50 in all early (pre serpintine) engines and 10/40 in the later engines.
The pre serp engines as used in RR classic, Rover SD1 etc have crap oil pressure and 20/50 helps keep it up at idle when hot. My V8 cortina has 5psi more on 20/50.
Late engines have a better oil system with finer tollerances so 20/50 should be avoided.
All Rover V8's suffer with cam and lifter wear so if theres a rattle, it needs looking at rather that putting thicker oil in.
The pre serp engines as used in RR classic, Rover SD1 etc have crap oil pressure and 20/50 helps keep it up at idle when hot. My V8 cortina has 5psi more on 20/50.
Late engines have a better oil system with finer tollerances so 20/50 should be avoided.
All Rover V8's suffer with cam and lifter wear so if theres a rattle, it needs looking at rather that putting thicker oil in.
my engine is only 9-10k miles old so i dont expect it to be wearing just yet, or at least i hope its not
balmgren
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I beg to differ a little bit...
IMHO the only three things that matter with an engine oil are; cold viscosity, warm viscosity and service classification. What does not matter is the eternal "synthetic or not" debate. One reason is that the oil manufactuers have won the right to call pretty much any old oil "synthetic" for marketing purposes. Other reason why "synthetic" or not does not matter is that the viscosity values dictate which is which anyway.
Starting with the cold viscosity; Assuming we are north (or south) of the 45th paralell - so for instance in Britain, or pretty much anywhere where temperatures go down to or below 0° Celsius one should always choose "0W" cold viscosity. This to ensure there is lubrication as soon as possible after start. A 20W cold viscosity will take much, much longer to provide any lubrication at those temperatures. If you do not belive me, stick a bottle of each in the fridge (or freezer) for a bit and see how they pour. The 20W won't pour very well when cold... guess what I prefer in my engines....
Moving on to warm viscosity; 30 is generally optimal for normal engines, 40 if it is getting a bit worn or driven very hard and 50 when near death or very highly tuned or being raced on a hot race track. The higher the number the thicker the oil is and so it will mask any clatter. Of course, in a healthy engine there won't be any clatter to mask. Bear in mind that the thicker it is the more friction it causes which can have a significantly detrimental effect on the MPG. If the ambient temperatures exceed about 35° Celsius then a 40 warm viscosity oil is neccessary.
So, unless there is a very special reason, I always go for 0W/30 in these engines, where I live (England)
Last we have the service classification; the usr manual states API SG or SH (it is the last letter which increases with better oil), this is to be regarded as a minimum, there is no harm in a better classification such as SL or even SM. The service classification among other things specify which additives and detergents have been added to the base oil. Things like STP belong to the stone age and apart from the fact that they are a waste of money (buy a better oil instead) they bring no discernible benefit as long as the minimum service level classification is met.
I'll step down from the soap-box now...
IMHO the only three things that matter with an engine oil are; cold viscosity, warm viscosity and service classification. What does not matter is the eternal "synthetic or not" debate. One reason is that the oil manufactuers have won the right to call pretty much any old oil "synthetic" for marketing purposes. Other reason why "synthetic" or not does not matter is that the viscosity values dictate which is which anyway.
Starting with the cold viscosity; Assuming we are north (or south) of the 45th paralell - so for instance in Britain, or pretty much anywhere where temperatures go down to or below 0° Celsius one should always choose "0W" cold viscosity. This to ensure there is lubrication as soon as possible after start. A 20W cold viscosity will take much, much longer to provide any lubrication at those temperatures. If you do not belive me, stick a bottle of each in the fridge (or freezer) for a bit and see how they pour. The 20W won't pour very well when cold... guess what I prefer in my engines....
Moving on to warm viscosity; 30 is generally optimal for normal engines, 40 if it is getting a bit worn or driven very hard and 50 when near death or very highly tuned or being raced on a hot race track. The higher the number the thicker the oil is and so it will mask any clatter. Of course, in a healthy engine there won't be any clatter to mask. Bear in mind that the thicker it is the more friction it causes which can have a significantly detrimental effect on the MPG. If the ambient temperatures exceed about 35° Celsius then a 40 warm viscosity oil is neccessary.
So, unless there is a very special reason, I always go for 0W/30 in these engines, where I live (England)
Last we have the service classification; the usr manual states API SG or SH (it is the last letter which increases with better oil), this is to be regarded as a minimum, there is no harm in a better classification such as SL or even SM. The service classification among other things specify which additives and detergents have been added to the base oil. Things like STP belong to the stone age and apart from the fact that they are a waste of money (buy a better oil instead) they bring no discernible benefit as long as the minimum service level classification is met.
I'll step down from the soap-box now...
