What not to dinitrol?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

johndregg

Active Member
Posts
178
Location
Belfast Ireland
I'm planning to dinitrol the chassis on my 110 this weekend. I've never done this before so I was wondering what I shouldn't spray when I'm under there. The brakes obviously, but should I drop the fuel tank out? Can I spray the axles?
Do I need to drill the chassis rails to get the wax inside or are there enough places to get access?
I've already had it cleaned last week, and it's been dry all week so I reckon this is as dry as she'll be this side of Xmas. Now or never!!
 
I'm planning to dinitrol the chassis on my 110 this weekend. I've never done this before so I was wondering what I shouldn't spray when I'm under there. The brakes obviously, but should I drop the fuel tank out? Can I spray the axles?
Do I need to drill the chassis rails to get the wax inside or are there enough places to get access?
I've already had it cleaned last week, and it's been dry all week so I reckon this is as dry as she'll be this side of Xmas. Now or never!!

I sprayed anything that didn't move. Don't see how it would cause any problems. Probably shouldn't spray the exhaust I guess...

There are enough holes in the chassis to get inside, make sure you use the ML stuff. It should come with a really long spraying pipe so you can put it inside the chassis.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/rustproofing-249389.html
 
I bought a kit from dinitrol themselves. It has stuff for inside and out. I also bought white paper overalls, goggles and gloves. Going to be a messy weekend.
 
You can get at most places you need to go without too much dismantling. The chassis is peppered with holes like a colander anyway, so there should be plenty to get your nozzle in to treat the inside. I found I could get at all the chassis metalwork reasonably well without taking the tank out. However, I've subsequently fitted an under wing long range tank which does restrict access to the rear crossmember so I gave it a good going over with Dinitrol before the tank went in place because I won't be seeing it for a while.

Worth getting some of their thin and runny stuff up inside the little holes in the bottoms of the doors too, and taking the hinge screws out to get inside the box sections of the bulkhead. I also took the mats up and did the footwells, because they tend to rust out.

It does come off skin eventually. I applied washing up liquid and the green abrasive side of a pan scrubber to my face, arms and neck every day in the shower for a few days and after about a week was the same colour I was when I started. I must have been well exfoliated.

If you get it n the exhaust it doesn't really matter. You just get a nice Dinitrol smell as you drive around.
 
Last edited:
You can get at most places you need to go without too much dismantling. The chassis is peppered with holes like a colander anyway, so there should be plenty to get your nozzle in to treat the inside. I found I could get at all the chassis metalwork reasonably well without taking the tank out. However, I've subsequently fitted an under wing long range tank which does restrict access to the rear crossmember so I gave it a good going over with Dinitrol before the tank went in place because I won't be seeing it for a while.

Worth getting some of their thin and runny stuff up inside the little holes in the bottoms of the doors too, and taking the hinge screws out to get inside the box sections of the bulkhead. I also took the mats up and did the footwells, because they tend to rust out.

It does come off skin eventually. I applied washing up liquid and the green abrasive side of a pan scrubber to my face, arms and neck every day in the shower for a few days and after about a week was the same colour I was when I started. I must have been well exfoliated.

If you get it n the exhaust it doesn't really matter. You just get a nice Dinitrol smell as you drive around.

Haha, made me laugh.

I didn't take the hinges off mine, but sprayed in from the bottom of the bulkhead and through the little rubber bungs where the LHD wipers would go. Seemed to get most places inc the inside shelf which coats my phone and wallet nicely everytime I put them in there.
 
You can get at most places you need to go without too much dismantling. The chassis is peppered with holes like a colander anyway, so there should be plenty to get your nozzle in to treat the inside. I found I could get at all the chassis metalwork reasonably well without taking the tank out. However, I've subsequently fitted an under wing long range tank which does restrict access to the rear crossmember so I gave it a good going over with Dinitrol before the tank went in place because I won't be seeing it for a while.

Worth getting some of their thin and runny stuff up inside the little holes in the bottoms of the doors too, and taking the hinge screws out to get inside the box sections of the bulkhead. I also took the mats up and did the footwells, because they tend to rust out.

It does come off skin eventually. I applied washing up liquid and the green abrasive side of a pan scrubber to my face, arms and neck every day in the shower for a few days and after about a week was the same colour I was when I started. I must have been well exfoliated.

If you get it n the exhaust it doesn't really matter. You just get a nice Dinitrol smell as you drive around.
Brilliant reply!!
I did the inside of my rear crossmember already with waxoyl aerosols, wasn't being careful and managed to waxoyl the sidepanel of my lambretta too.
 
Where is the cheapest place to buy this stuff? I'm finding out its not cheap!!
 
I bought mine from Amazon. Not sure how good a deal it was but it was convenient.

I've done the inside of the chassis of a Discovery 2 using the ML stuff and was able to get everywhere done with ease using existing holes.

I've started with the 49?? Black stuff but only got a third done so far. Like the other poster said, I plan to cover everything that does not move. I'll try to avoid the exhaust, gearbox and engine sump but I'm not going to worry if any does get on those.

I've also bought disposable overalls including a hood. Last time I did this with Waxoyl it took me two days to get it off me and then another two days to get it off the formerly white shower tray!
 
Is it similar to Waxoyl? think with that avoid any rubber bits / boots etc as it has white spirit base / thinners used which apparently can shorten the life of some rubbers.
 
Back
Top