VCU, IRD, what the...?!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
false peace of mind. Best test is reverse a FL on full lock with a good VCU and compare it, and try and remember how it feels. And always match all 4 tyres, mismatched tyres can destroy a box in a few miles.


Oh yeah!:rolleyes:

there yu are guys - hippoo owners need to carry a spare VCU - just to be able to check the one they usually drive - ffs - dont be stoopid!
 
The car cannot move if front and rear wheels are not rotating at the same speed without something giving, i.e. slip or breaking something. Its like trying to turn a corner without a differential.
You give a 12month warranty on your reconditioned VCUs, what mileage does that include?
 
The car cannot move if front and rear wheels are not rotating at the same speed without something giving, i.e. slip or breaking something. Its like trying to turn a corner without a differential.


Of course it will still move - yes it will scrub tyres and overload the transmission - but it WILL move.

try telling that to defender/disco owners that drive on tarmac with difflock engaged.:mad:
 
Is this in theory or has it been wittnessed?

In 3 years of rebuilding VCU's we have never seen a a seized solid VCU, very stiff yes, but never solid.

Ok i admit the car probably would move for a short distance but it would be bloody horrible and something would break very soon! I've driven a customers car that had just had a new diff and VCU fitted, and it was behaving very stange on the road, every bump tried to make the car shoot across the road, and the when coming to a stop the rear wheels were locking up. It turned out that the front and rear tyres were 1/2 inch different in diameter, this difference caused the difference in front and rear prop rpm to be increased which meant the VCU was having to slip a lot more. This was causing the VCU to virtually lock up (as it is designed to off road) in normal driving. I actually think it was locking instantaneously then having to release causing the car to jerk every where and lock the wheels as you came to a stand still on the breaks. The rear diff lasted 8 miles before it blew, and is what taught us that small differences in wheel diameters are probably the catalyst of all problems.
 
Ok i admit the car probably would move for a short distance.


Ah! - so it would move then?

sfunny - now how did I know that?

please get your facts right - half truths and inaccuracies do not help.

As for "replace every 60K miles" - erm - you would say that - you sell the buggers!
 
Ah! - so it would move then?

sfunny - now how did I know that?

please get your facts right - half truths and inaccuracies do not help.

As for "replace every 60K miles" - erm - you would say that - you sell the buggers!

OK should have said, it would not move without wheels scrubbing, or you would not be able to move it by manually pushing it.

I do say replace it every 60k as its just not worth the risk. if you are running a lot off road, towing or have run unmatched tyres, i would say replace it sooner. I'm not saying buy ours, buy it from where ever you like :p
 
Why is it. What do you suggest instead?

because they never seize solid, so the lines will always move. Best way is a large flat car park, reverse in a circle on full lock then dip the clutch and see how much resistance there is. Its obviously hard to quantify if you don't know how good one should feel, but there should only be a small amount of resistance. Also check for saw toot pattern on inside edge of rear tyres, yes an old set of tyres with a good VCU will show a small pattern, but if its pronounced then its a good sign its been run for a ong time with a bad VCU.
 
Back
Top