Update- Head-gaskets,photos, advice pls

The vitesse block onwards have extra X webbing on the front of the block around the timing chain area, early blocks P5 P6 etc dont have this, thus later blocks are called stiff.
Just quickly copied this from a Cobra forum :-

I always thought the stiff blocks could be identified by the thicker webs between the vee's of the engine (over the cam shaft) and a few more webs under the timing cover. Early P5 and P6 blocks had the rope type rear seal with the later blocks having the Neoprene seal. P5 and P6 heads have smaller valves so not much use for tuning.

I had an early non stiff block, SD1 engine in a Land Rover of mine and I fitted a Piper 270/110 cam and a four barrel Edelbrock carb kit. along with main bearing studs and a roller type timing chain I had plenty of power and its still going strong after about 40,000 miles.

If you have a Rover block already with the Neoprene rear main seal then just use it. You have nothing to loose and chances are it will go on forever in true Rover V8 style.

If you are hoping to get huge power out off it then you should be looking at the larger capacity engines anyway, such as the 3.9, 4.0, 4.2 or 4.6. All off these are classed as stiff blocks with the last of the bunch, the 4.0 and the 4.6 being cross bolted main bearings as well.

I originally was going to go with rover power in my Dax. I brought a 4.6 short engine, Rovercraft stage 4 heads and a set off quad 45 Dellorto downdrafts with manifolds. I had a change of mind after having a ride in the Dax demonstrator which at the time had the 350 Chevy engine which is what I now have.

In short then.
If you are going to stick with modest power go with any 3.5 block which has a neoprene rear seal and use SD1 Heads. Aim for the 9.35 compression blocks and pistons rather than the 8:1 Land Rover engines.

If you want more power find a larger capacity engine than 3.5 such as the later range Rover lumps.

If you want even more power then go to an american V8. Cheap and easy to tune for loads of power

Thats my take on the situation anyway.

Hope this helps.

interesting stuff, what year did they change then?

really I want a 3.5 of that year or later and from an sd1 then, as I want a 3.5 to stroke out1

does anyone know if a 3.9 crank can be fitted to a 3.5 block to stroke it?

My David Hadcastle book says 1984 but some were made in 1983. A 3.9 is the same stroke as a 3.5 (71mm or 2.8in). Its the bore thats different. 88.9mm/3.5in for the 3.5 and 94.4/3.7in for the 3.9. Its only when you go to 4.2 and above that the stroke changes. Thats why i went for a 4.2 in my Hotrod, as this was the biggest i could go without using a 4.6. (No dizzy etc).
Real steel do a stroker kit for the 3.5 but its expensive.

yeah I looked £1600 plus vat and delivery, I would put a bmw v8 in it for that money.

So I wonder if a 4.2 crank would go in a 3.5 block??

I want a 3.5 block because of the liner issues with the bigger ones as it will be an lpg motor, but I want to just be able bolt standard parts without machining too keep costs down.

Ah now thats a question, not sure is my answer LOL. I guess in theory it would but the piston hight maybe different. RPI might know.

can i trust those tryna sell a stroker kit for £1600? nah lol

Hi,Everyone and thanks for your comments!!!!! Just been cleaning parts today, Is it possible to pressure test the block, ie make some plates for each face with a gauge over each bore, pressure. What sort of pressure should i test the heads?

It is relatively rare for the heads to crack, more likely to warp. This is best checked on a surface plate/table with the table surface coated with Engineers Blue or Raddle.
Difficult to check the block as pressure drop does occur past the piston rings.
The pressure reached in the cylinders during the compression stroke can reach 170 psi plus.
Without sounding negative, the symptoms you have...milky rocker covers, "Washed" appearance of one of your piston crowns leads me to suspect the possibility of slipped liner/ porous block syndrome. Have a look on RPI Engineering website for more info.
I personally would replace the head gaskets etc. and see what difference it makes regarding water consumption.....if the problem returns shortly afterwards, you should be looking at the block being the cause and not simply a head gasket blown.
I speak with first hand experience both on a 3.9 Classic and later on my own 4.6 HSE.

double unlucky then irish?

Could say that !!!
After I fitted new short engines to both, they ran like a dream.
With the Classic I replaced the head gaskets about 3 times in as many weeks, even after getting the heads checked for flatness and pressure. The curse of porous blocks was kept well under wraps by LR in those days. My old gaffer bought a new 3.9 and about a couple of months from new it went into the main stealer for a blown head gasket. They kept the car for about a month and it came back with a new engine fitted under warranty. LR did not say what the problem was and kept quiet.
It was only by reading about the problem on the RPI website and speaking to their MD Chris Crane that I reluctantly bit the bullet, hit the Credit Card and went for a new short engine. A few years ago, the same symptoms occured with my 4.6, I replaced the head gaskets twice in two weeks and was 99.99% sure that history had repeated itself so put a new short engine in her....never looked back since.
Obviously, it makes sense to fork out £100ish for a couple of gasket sets in the hope that a possible spend of £2000 can be avoided.

The reason I mention pressure testing the heads is that I had a Pajero (Ok not the same) and cracked heads (2.5, 2.8 & I hear 3.2s also) are very prone to cracking, as a fully paid up member of the cracked head & blown turbo club I'm maybe a little paranoid about them. Anyway should not be expensive to have them checked for cracks and warping at any decent engine refurbishers. But listening to guys who are experienced with this engine leads me to think the worst. Seen a similar photo on POCUK of a piston that looked steam cleaned like yours and that was a cracked head.
Really hope you get some luck
Davie
P38 2.5DT Auto Met red.

too true, expensive fix otherwise, my autobox recon was the worst hit for me at £850!

sticking with my lt95 when the 72 rrc is finished, no more of those bills thanks!