Treating her to some lube

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huffhuff

huffhuff

Well-Known Member
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Hi all

Over the next couple of weeks, I want to complete a full change of all oils and lubricants as I can't be certain when any of it was last done. The plan is to do most of it in my lunch hour at work (when I get a chance).

I'm going to do engine oil, diffs, gear and transfer box. I've got new rotator, oil, air filters and sump plug washer (did fuel filter 2 weeks ago). Is there anything else I am better off replacing/renewing as I go along?!? I'm thinking simple ish things whilst I'm in the area. It can't add too much of a kerfuffle unless really warranted or justified.

Cheers in advance

It's a 2001 TD5
 
On my 300 getting the oil into the main gearbox (R380) is a bit of a pain, I ended up with about a three foot length of pipe/hose with a funnel attached to one end. Took up drivers seat base and panel and fed the pipe down to the box and into the filler hole, slowly added oil via funnel until it overflowed. Done it a couple of times and I think that is the easiest way on mine. Bear in mind that I have a 90 so I have the fuel tank under drivers seat, not sure what will be under your seat base on a TD5
 
i used send a 500ml oil suction pump from screwfix at about a tenner to get oil in main gearbox. It filled easily from below with no mess. Before you start job have a quick look at drain plugs, they changed from t35 on one box hex on the other at some time.
Also while you are under there grease propshafts
 
Last edited:
Huff huff I bought two of theses pumps and they are a big help not too strong but I have been using them for a couple of years already and they still work fine. They sell them at Maplin too.
Amazon product
 
Any gaskets, plugs or similar I can change? On looking today, my rear diff seems 'damp' and the transfer box looks as though it might be leaking some kind of oil?!?
 
It all depends how much dismantling you're prepared to do to chase the oil leaks. It's usual for things to look damp with oil, it's when it starts leaving big patches that its time to think about doing something. Changing the input seal on the diff can slow the losses down a bit and isn't too big a job. Prop off, bolt out and drive flange off, and you can get at the seal. Mine came apart relatively easily but it can be more reluctant to separate. There are quite a few seals and gaskets that can leak on the transfer box, so unless it's really leaky it might be worth leaving it until it's time to do a rebuild.
 
huffhuff said:
Hi all

Over the next couple of weeks, I want to complete a full change of all oils and lubricants as I can't be certain when any of it was last done. The plan is to do most of it in my lunch hour at work (when I get a chance).

I'm going to do engine oil, diffs, gear and transfer box. I've got new rotator, oil, air filters and sump plug washer (did fuel filter 2 weeks ago). Is there anything else I am better off replacing/renewing as I go along?!? I'm thinking simple ish things whilst I'm in the area. It can't add too much of a kerfuffle unless really warranted or justified.

Cheers in advance

It's a 2001 TD5
Click to expand...
Very good idea, changing all the oils will prolong gearbox and axle life! :) As above, well worth doing the propshaft UJs as well. And change the brake fluid, should be done every two years, but few bother.
Try making something like this to fill gearboxes, saves a lot of filling and spilling! ;)

 
Ha, only just getting around to this now. Just back from the motor factors £70 lighter. Got oil for gear box, transfer box and diffs.

Will I need any copper washers etc.?

Ta in advance
 
Need new copper crush washers for the engine drain plug and gearbox I believe!

Careful changing the rotor filter, the heads can sheer pretty easily, I would suggest dousing in Plus Gas or similar before attempting to remove.

Removing the TX box fill plug is a bit of a pain due to the handbrake cable being in the way, for me anyway, it keeps switching the socket switch!

Biggest pain in the ass I found was filling the diff oil, just takes forever. Probs worth throwing some one-shot into the hubs as well and greasing the propshafts and various balljoints.
 
bankz5152 said:
Need new copper crush washers for the engine drain plug and gearbox I believe!

Careful changing the rotor filter, the heads can sheer pretty easily, I would suggest dousing in Plus Gas or similar before attempting to remove.

Removing the TX box fill plug is a bit of a pain due to the handbrake cable being in the way, for me anyway, it keeps switching the socket switch!

Biggest pain in the ass I found was filling the diff oil, just takes forever. Probs worth throwing some one-shot into the hubs as well and greasing the propshafts and various balljoints.
Click to expand...

Already done the engine oil, filter and rotor (and rocker gasket, and injector washers, seals and loom). Will be doing one-shot and UJs at same time. I've got a pump for difficult to reach bits :)

Do you know what size washer for the gear box, that's th only bit I don't have.
 
If you've got one of those big hex head drain plugs on the main gearbox the coper washer has an internal diameter of 24mm.
 
I only came in this thread because I liked the rudey sound to the title... Haha!

If no-one has mentioned already, undo the fill plugs before the drain plugs, you don't wanna be stranded at work with no oil in yer gearbox! My filler plug for my gearbox was the hardest
 
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