the best oil???

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desertrover said:
Interesting thread this.....I recently had an oil change, and topped up my 2.5DSE with fully synth Comma 10/40...have I made a mistake?...local Bearmach shop said that I should use it....I thought it might be a bit "thin" for my old duchess...she's got 110,000 under her girdle bless her!....I thought she would have benefited from something a bit more viscous in her belly!??....What about oil additives...Wynns Oil Treatment etc...are they recommended?...Lets hear it from you exspurts.
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hi,i put a lucas oils oil additive in my p38 doozil and it has quietened the engine down and it runs a lot smoother.
 
I think the message in this thread is a little off putting to a lot of people.

Fair enough saying dont put in FS oil, but at least explain why.

Its not a simple mark up, the stuff is very different from mineral oil.

I would have thought the Viscosity of the oil is far more important than if its mineral or full synthetic. Indeed wouldnt it better to pick oil based on its viscosity


As for adding stuff to the oil, there are things that work but cause other problems.
ptfe isnt that bad, but you are going to need to modify the filter on the vehicle to ensure it doesnt clog it up. Thats why oil companies dont stick it in their oil, as they will end up with law suits for millions if not billions. However pfte is still the most slippery thing know to man, the issue is ensuring it doesnt clog the oil filter, or at the very least just sit there.
 
As for oil change periods, I have to agree on 5000 miles tops. That is if you want to thing to last.

I've got a car that has a manufacturer recommended oil change interval of 6000 miles, and many change their every 3000 miles. It makes a difference.

For the price of some oil, these days its as cheap as filling the tank up
 
I've got two gallons of Castrol 'R' ithe garage but someone told me not to use it in the V8 as it would ruin the engine:confused:
 
djorgensen said:
As for oil change periods, I have to agree on 5000 miles tops. That is if you want to thing to last.

I've got a car that has a manufacturer recommended oil change interval of 6000 miles, and many change their every 3000 miles. It makes a difference.

For the price of some oil, these days its as cheap as filling the tank up
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'cheap' as filling the tank :eek: :D
 
I've always used a good quality 10w40 oil in petrols and 15w40 in deisels,regular changes arn't expensive if you shop around and the filters are cheap enough too.the newer sythetic oils that say they can last 15k between services are all well and good in a brand new engine but on older higher milage engines i wouldn't take the chance.
 
My RR classic 3.9 V8 seems to keep it's oil very clean for it's age and I hardley every have to top it up.

Unless it's a deisel it's not worth chaning the oil every 4000miles, unless your engine is suffering from exesive blow by.

I use a 15w/40 Semi-Synthetic diesiel oil like Coma which is resonably priced and contains lots of ZDDP.
 
I use 15w40 mineral oil in my 4.6 and it seems to run better than the 10w40 synthetic stuff that the last garage that serviced it put in.
 
Synthetic oil is the best there is,but should not be used until 20000mls on the engine as it stops the running in process because of its superior lubricating abilities.One of the best is Carlube from Europarts,if bought in 25ltr drums is not expensive at about £80 per drum(5w-40w fully synth).The problem of using it in a high mileage engine ie:110000mls for instance is that it will release the burnt deposits (carbon) from the internal parts and may block the oil strainer in the sump.In your case if you have had water in the oil and it has got hot this will have the same effect on the carbon so you should drop the sump and clean it and the strainer before refilling with oil 9.5ltrs with new oil filter.Hope this is of some help.
Regards Vic
 
BTW, the Comma Eurodiesel 15w/40 semi-synthetic oil has 1400ppm of ZDDP for those running flat tappet engines such as the V8.
 
CostCo have 20 litres of Chevron 10W40 to ACEA B3 for £35 at the moment, can't beat that I reckon. I found 15W40 was too much in my DSE, it runs quieter with 10W40.

The Rover V8 was designed in 1935, it only needs minimum spec mineral oil!
 
I use semi synth and change around every 3000.Filter less than a fiver, oil 21.99 from halfords and they gave me a free set of there professional screwdrivers.Cos theyre professional thyre gareenteed for life so will be used for prying, drift, chislling etc.And replaced for nowt!
 
lanmjdun's right the engine was never designed to use synthetic or semisynthetic recommended oil is mineral I use ASDA 5.99 for 4.5 litres change oil and filter every 5,000 miles. Currently run 3 range rovers 1993 3.9 classic, 2000 4.6 and 2001 4.0. all converted to dual fuel (LPG/gasoline) never had a moments problems. With LPG it is possible to run 10K between oil changes due to cleanliness of combustion but for the price of ASDA oil 5K is OK. I've had 9 rangerovers since 1979 - never had any mechanical issues - do all my own maint and very strongly advocate regular oil and filter changes.
 
oops I ve got 10w40 semi in there at the moment on 1990 3.9,

Should I drain and replace?

I was going to put castrol magnatec 10w40 semi in next as I do lots of short trips, should I not?

Thanks

John
 
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