p38 suspension wont go up

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wammers said:
Check it first. It is on a board with the brush holder in the back of the compressor. As i said needs a bit of nous.
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Ive read the 'how to' check the thermal and it says strip a bit of the orange wire back and earth it? I don't have a meter.
is it the wire on the plug with about 16 wires where the wire is black with orange in it or is it the big salmon colour looking one on the big plug which has 3 or 4 wires
 
crosser69 said:
Ive read the 'how to' check the thermal and it says strip a bit of the orange wire back and earth it? I don't have a meter.
is it the wire on the plug with about 16 wires where the wire is black with orange in it or is it the big salmon colour looking one on the big plug which has 3 or 4 wires
Click to expand...

Wires on compressor plug three wires. Green is power from relay. Black is ground. Orange is ground signal via thermal switch to ECU. Strip a bit of Orange wire back and connect a wire from that to a good clean ground. Start car and compressor should run if thermal switch is duff. DO NOT run car i this state or you could burn our compressor motor.
 
mozz smith said:
:mad: I know - intensity !!!!!!

its when something takes 12 mths and cost's and cost't = approx. £900.00 and finding out it was only
£ 8.40

that's FEKIN INTENSITY !!!!!!!:eek::eek::eek::eek:

I haven't much hair left now :doh::doh::doh::doh:
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Yeah but you sorted the high/low problem out along the way. And made friends with Alan and me so stop moaning, what more do you expect for £800.00? :p:D:D
 
wammers said:
Wires on compressor plug three wires. Green is power from relay. Black is ground. Orange is ground signal via thermal switch to ECU. Strip a bit of Orange wire back and connect a wire from that to a good clean ground. Start car and compressor should run if thermal switch is duff. DO NOT run car i this state or you could burn our compressor motor.
Click to expand...
Champion..i will try that in the morning and will let you know what happens..
 
wammers said:
Wires on compressor plug three wires. Green is power from relay. Black is ground. Orange is ground signal via thermal switch to ECU. Strip a bit of Orange wire back and connect a wire from that to a good clean ground. Start car and compressor should run if thermal switch is duff. DO NOT run car i this state or you could burn our compressor motor.
Click to expand...
Right decided to go outside in the dark with my lamp...I stripped a bit of the wire back..i started the car and ran a wire directly from the earth on the battery and the pump did not run...starting to run out of ideas now.
 
crosser69 said:
Right decided to go outside in the dark with my lamp...I stripped a bit of the wire back..i started the car and ran a wire directly from the earth on the battery and the pump did not run...starting to run out of ideas now.
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To the negative side of the battery i hope. Is the EAS active. Just one lamp flashing. And the EASunlock shut down properly. You have of course checked that the relay is ok.
 
wammers said:
To the negative side of the battery i hope. Is the EAS active. Just one lamp flashing. And the EASunlock shut down properly. You have of course checked that the relay is ok.
Click to expand...
Ive swopped the relay in the fuse box and is still the same.
just so im on the same wavelength can you confirm that if I take the relay out which terminals do I use to bridge.
the way I get the pump to work at the moment is the positive wire near the pump.
The height light inside inside is flashing and the bottom light is permanently lit until I bridge the pump to work.
 
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if anyone is near the durham area who could help me....it must be something stupid..anyone got a proper plug in diagnostic tool to help me?
 
crosser69 said:
Ive swopped the relay in the fuse box and is still the same.
just so im on the same wavelength can you confirm that if I take the relay out which terminals do I use to bridge.
the way I get the pump to work at the moment is the positive wire near the pump.
The height light inside inside is flashing and the bottom light is permanently lit until I bridge the pump to work.
Click to expand...

3 and 5 on relay 20 or positive from battery to terminal 5. The compressor will not run until faults are cleared and EASunlock is properly disconnected. If you have not done this and have been playing with live feeds to compressor plug, and put live from battery to Orange wire you will immediately have fried the thermal switch.


http://www.p38rangerover.com/index.php/fuses-and-relays/engine-bay-fuse-box.html Just hover above the relays for description. Terminal 5 on all yellow relays is the one that is contrary in orientation to the other three.
 
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wammers said:
3 and 5 on relay 20 or positive from battery to terminal 5. The compressor will not run until faults are cleared and EASunlock is properly disconnected. If you have not done this and have been playing with live feeds to compressor plug, and put live from battery to Orange wire you will immediately have fried the thermal switch.


P38 Range Rover Engine Bay Fuse Box Fuse and Relay Information-P38 Range Rover Electrical Common faults and Fixes Just hover above the relays for description. Terminal 5 on all yellow relays is the one that is contrary in orientation to the other three.
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you could be right about the thermal switch so going to order one and bite the bullet and take the compressor off.
 
so to recap then...the heigh switch will work to let the suspension down and the level lights are working but obviously no message going up to the compressor to work...so fitting a thermal switch will rule that out...how do I backtrack from there?
 
crosser69 said:
so to recap then...the heigh switch will work to let the suspension down and the level lights are working but obviously no message going up to the compressor to work...so fitting a thermal switch will rule that out...how do I backtrack from there?
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Fit the thermal switch then come back. Orange thermal switch wire on compressor plug should have continuity to black ground wire on compressor plug if you have fitted it correctly. DO NOT under any circumstances allow either of these wires to contact positive whilst the plug is connected to the loom. in particular the Orange one. Get yourself a test meter you will need one.
 
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mozz smith said:
tomcat !!!!!!! he told us all that he's in the north east , duram .in his opening question !!!!!!!
please pay attention or should you have gone to specsavers you thick plastic scouser . ha ha ha .
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If you were looking at the post from the start, the op didn't have his location in, that's why I asked him for one. The edit button is a wonderful thing. You must have been having an afternoon nap.:p:D:D:D
 
Well have tried my eas software again today and it will not read the ecu..just comes up 'no idle'.
tried 4 or 5 times..it did work the other day but I tried another ecu on it to see if would make any difference and it didn't so I put the old one now and now I cant connect to the software...there is a 'cleared' ecu up for sale on ebay so just wondering if I should buy it?
 
crosser69 said:
Well have tried my eas software again today and it will not read the ecu..just comes up 'no idle'.
tried 4 or 5 times..it did work the other day but I tried another ecu on it to see if would make any difference and it didn't so I put the old one now and now I cant connect to the software...there is a 'cleared' ecu up for sale on ebay so just wondering if I should buy it?
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If take the time to read both the posts you have put on here then you will find there are steps you need to take before spending any money. As I said before, two posts on the same subject only confuses the issue.:)
 
tomcat59alan said:
If take the time to read both the posts you have put on here then you will find there are steps you need to take before spending any money. As I said before, two posts on the same subject only confuses the issue.:)
Click to expand...
I put the other post on to see if anyon]e local could shed some fresh light on it..
I do keep trying the software to see if I can get it to sync up with the ecu to no avail.
I do have another fully functioning p38 suspension on the other p38 but fee reluctant to swop any other parts around in case I end up with both with the same problem.
 
crosser69 said:
I put the other post on to see if anyon]e local could shed some fresh light on it..
I do keep trying the software to see if I can get it to sync up with the ecu to no avail.
I do have another fully functioning p38 suspension on the other p38 but fee reluctant to swop any other parts around in case I end up with both with the same problem.
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As I put on your first post , you have a comms problem for a start, and this has been confirmed by others. You can spend all you want but to no avail until you get this sorted. Search " bad comms", it has been covered on here many times.:)
 
As a question.. where did you get your comms cable for the EAS. if you cant verify the quality of the cable a duff connection will give you spurious signals and inconsistent readings and probably wont clear the faults allowing the EAS to function!
 
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