p38 non starter

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chris1alfie

New Member
Posts
7
Location
erith near london
evening all. i am really desperate for some advice. my beloved p38 dse suddenly wouldn't start after it was parked up for about 3 hours. there was no warning that anything was wrong. it has been on land rover diagnostics which uncovered lots of faults. the becm which is located under the drivers seat was replaced, but still no start, various ecu's have been replaced also. the garage now seem to think it is mechanical. they are about to test for compression, is this the right route to take? i am not mechaically minded and don't want the garage to pull my pants down. any ideas?
 
Hi.
We prusume you trust the garage in the first place?

There is no mention of whether diesel is getting to the engine or if all the fuses were checked and if it was okay when you left it there (the garage) and the garage has been under the bonnet (as it were) then the liability lies with them until they show it is their error, general wear and tear or otherwise and they have the diagnostics kit then it should be fairly routine for them to trace.........also some of the diagnostic kits do a printout, ask to see it.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers , Nick.
 
hi cris i had same problem with my petrol p38 it turned out to be the fuse box ,replaced this and then they found a main feed wire from becm was broken kinked that and she fired up,hope this helps pj
 
yeah thanks murco i was squealing like a pig today when i got the bill from the garage, cos they have had enough of it. so it's being shipped to another garage, hope they have more luck.
 
yes john, that'll be 50 quid for not fixing yr computer thats not broken! please post cheque asap i accept all major credit cards!!! :behindsofa: :mooning:
 
ouch that must have hurt,why???,:eek:

Typical gas boiler technician, wants to come back with "a new control board" sir at €300. It's already been changed and it's not the problem, but they all have the same answer, must be very profitable:mad: Electronics is my business, I have the equipment to check the control board. I can't get anyone to fix the real problem and I don't like messing with gas but will have to give it a go:(
 
Typical gas boiler technician, wants to come back with "a new control board" sir at €300. It's already been changed and it's not the problem, but they all have the same answer, must be very profitable:mad: Electronics is my business, I have the equipment to check the control board. I can't get anyone to fix the real problem and I don't like messing with gas but will have to give it a go:(

what is the problem?
 
what is the problem?

It will not light reliably, takes 3 or 4 attempts sometimes more. It's never been reliable from new when it was converted to run on bottled gas. I'm pretty sure it's a pressure differential problem between the inlet and outlet of the gas control valve. I have improved it dramatically by reducing the size of the hole in the restrictor diaphram on the outlet. Problem is I'm running blind as I now nowt about gas control valves:confused: The inlet pressure is correct so I figure it must be the pressure on the outlet side cos if it is too low it will cause the valve to shut. Leak prevention safety I presume:confused::confused: Going to make up a new restrictor with a much reduced hole size and try that. Trouble is I'm up against a deadline, visitors arrive Friday and it will be bloody cold without it:eek: (I rent out a little cottage (Gite) to supplement my meagre pension)
 
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