More power

Hi all, I have a freelander TD4 Auto, I have had the ecu remapped and it has made a nice difference but being greedy I would like to know if there is anything else I can do to make it a bit more responsive? Or am I asking too much? Ben

Bigger intercooler would be my first port of call

Thanks, how easy would it be to do that?

I believe Allisport and another company do a direct replacement with a much larger core and more fins etc. As far as I know its a case of unbolt and bolt in, but can't confirm

thanks for the info. Anything else you can think of? Ive heard of a DPF (not sure if its right) replacement?

The FL1 doesn't have a DPF (diesel particulate filter), you do however have an EGR valve, removing this for a replacement blank kit (also sold by Allisport, I have one of their kits fitted on my car alongside silicone hoses) makes the engine run a little better.

see post no.10
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/intercooler-problem-mod-126484.html

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'Heat Exchanger Theory and Intercoolers'
Intercooler Theory

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was mention somewhere of a synergy/ronbox used together with an ecu re-map
result 171 bhp ( i think rover ron tried it .. but don't quote me )

take into account the temps the turbo might run at ..
and how much torque / bhp the drivetrain components will take ..
and .. obviously the braking system ..

nice to have power .. but don't rekon the hippo1 be ideally suited ..
i.e. given it's weight and suspension ..
unless maybe for off-road rally .. but then the v6 is probably the choice :-/

hd3 said:

see post no.10
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/intercooler-problem-mod-126484.html

~~~~~
'Heat Exchanger Theory and Intercoolers'
Intercooler Theory

~~~~
was mention somewhere of a synergy/ronbox used together with an ecu re-map
result 171 bhp ( i think rover ron tried it .. but don't quote me )

take into account the temps the turbo might run at ..
and how much torque / bhp the drivetrain components will take ..
and .. obviously the braking system ..

nice to have power .. but don't rekon the hippo1 be ideally suited ..
i.e. given it's weight and suspension ..
unless maybe for off-road rally .. but then the v6 is probably the choice :-/

Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for the advice

Rover Ron is running an Energy Tuning remap and a Ronbox as mentioned above.

The economy suffers. I think he only gets in the low 30's.

Don't forget a pipercross air filter and the PCV cyclone mod.

Has the auto box oil been changed recently?

Best of all make sure everything is working properly, all the injectors are perfect and the fuel filter has been replaced and the pumps are working properly. The fuel rail sensor/wiring is all okay and not corroding.

Brakes-drilled or dimpled & slotted discs with some performance pads will help with stopping.

The FL1 will never be a sports car. Use the torque and enjoy the scenery. :lol:

Unless you can lose around 500kg like the new RRS.

The FL1 doesn't have a DPF (diesel particulate filter), you do however have an EGR valve, removing this for a replacement blank kit (also sold by Allisport, I have one of their kits fitted on my car alongside silicone hoses) makes the engine run a little better

Click to expand...

+1

~~~~~~~~
whatever route you go ..
get the egr valve bypassed 'n go from there ..
as the engine will breathe better .. and there's 1 less item to cause future trouble ..
plus it's easy to do
~~~~~~~

'editing' the exhaust system .. decat .. better flowing backbox .. or no backbox
will allow the turbo to boost quicker ..
although i was told by an exhaust maker that 'some' back-pressure is desirable
to stop oil being sucked out from the turbo seals into the exhaust
( at least i think that was the reason

Use the torque and enjoy the scenery.

Click to expand...

+1

the torque is the m47r/td4's best performance asset ..

the bhp lies at the top end of the rpm spectrum ..
and there's only so far one can take that before pistons meet valves .. or something else breaks ..
dunno .. guess i'm old school .. or spent too much time with large diesels .. ( 2200 rpm max. .. or else kaboom )
but running a diesel at 4k rpm makes me nervous

I know a chap who had one of the original rally cars and he said even that was a bit slow on the straights. He's got a Scooby now so that tells you something...

If you want a faster Freelander you need a V6!!
see this http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vjv4EOE4Kb4
Hope you don't mind Hippo?

Or if you want pulling power then see this.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qJOapbLJ3Us

Nodge68 said:

If you want a faster Freelander you need a V6!!
see this http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vjv4EOE4Kb4
Hope you don't mind Hippo?

Or if you want pulling power then see this.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qJOapbLJ3Us

Click to expand...

Ha ha.

That v6 looks quick compared to my TD4, which feels like 20s on the 0-60 sprint. I'm sure it isn't, but when you come from a1500kg CR140 Yeti with about 180bhp, my TD4 feels like a snail. I think it's 0-60 was in the 8's for the sprint.

As for pulling power, that FL1 vs Disco was brilliant. You could see that the VCU was doing its stuff as there was just that little bit of snow thrown up from the rear o/s wheel at the end of the clip.

Epicuser said:

Ha ha.

That v6 looks quick compared to my TD4, which feels like 20s on the 0-60 sprint. I'm sure it isn't, but when you come from a1500kg CR140 Yeti with about 180bhp, my TD4 feels like a snail. I think it's 0-60 was in the 8's for the sprint.

As for pulling power, that FL1 vs Disco was brilliant. You could see that the VCU was doing its stuff as there was just that little bit of snow thrown up from the rear o/s wheel at the end of the clip.

Click to expand...

The V6 Freelander is a versatile beast, that's why I've got one. I'm an MG ZS180 man really but I need the practicality of the Freelander so for me it's the only choice.

Interestingly the 0 to 60 video shows the box change up (auto) at around 6000 rpm but full power isn't produced until 6500 rpm. This would slow it down. My V6 changes at 6500 rpm.
But these videos are fun.