maf problem

Good morning
And apologies if I have posted in the wrong section or done something wrong I'm new
. I had noticed my Freelander has quite a bit of black smoke on accelerating or when I Rev it leaves a nice black soot stain on the car park . I have l series diesel 1998 but question I'm asking is should there be a noticeable difference in engine noise and running if I disconnect the maf because it runs the same if it's connected or disconnected wondering if this is the problem

Hi,
The MAF on the L series ONLY controls the EGR valve - it does not do anything else to the engine. If the egr valve is stuck in the open position, the MAF connect or disconnect will do absolutely nothing. - symptoms of egr valve stuck open failure are loss of power and increased black smoke. (From RAVE Manual)

Recommend fitting an EGR blanking mod (Cheap to do and easy) then try it - after that you can disconnect the egr modulator valve on the bulkhead and also the MAF itself. With the EGR removal - the maf does Jack sh!t after that removal on the L series - you can even bypass it completely with a bit of tube.

Now, if that doesn't work (which it probably will - ) then we need to look elsewhere. removing the egr is a good thing to do anyway, it is of no benefit to the actual performance of the engine.

HTH

Joe

Hi joe
Thanks for the reply the egr mod has already been done I have noticed that the bolts that hold the intake on are stripped so don't think it's seating properley
Cheers
J

Hi Jason, please try the reseating first -
But, to clarify, are you referring to the intake MANIFOLD or the egr blanking plate ?
Joe

Hi joe
Intake manifold sorry I noticed I have some drips of oil on the exhaust manifold too . I have revealed the rocker cover that was leaking seems to be oil in the intake and in the the black rubber pipe that's attached to it
J

It's runs fine just I get a cloud of black smoke when i put my foot down and a whistle like air leaking

Hi Jason, you need to replace the intake manifold fasteners and secure it properly. The MAP (not MAF) sensor is seeing a reduced pressure therefore expecting to see an increase in the turbo boost, this is then leaking from the intake manifold (reducing the expected pressure increase). The increased boost EXPECTED by the map sensor does not relate to the signalled value of RPM etc in relation to the demand on the motor (and it's expected increased engine performance), the management system attempts to supply extra fuel to compensate.
Seal the leak and all should be fine.

edit - to also add - when you remove the intake manifold - also give it a darn good clean !... also check the turbo pipes to and from the inter-cooler to the intake - although, if the intake is leaking, I would look there first.

Joe

Superb thank you I will get mucky again later and strip it I have some thread repair that I will do and see if I can get it to seal properley
Thank you for your help much appreciated . It's never ending jobs lol but it did only cost me £200 and the jobs I have done cost me nothing simple repairs apart from £1.50 for a new core plug

And it's not a bad tub really

Nice one Jason, same as mine - exactly same colour and layout (Mine is a 11/99 L series 4 door in same colour !)
Note the intake manifold has rubber 'o' rings as the seal. - 4 of them - you may want to get new ones. Also, removal of studs if needed are )and bolts -
I believe there are two studs, and 6 bolts. Where are the 'stripped' items you refer to mate ?
Je

As for core plugs etc - well yup, I know about the suckers.

Here are a few pics of mine - note the small HOLE in the block !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - rear of engine - was drilled, tapped and sealed with epoxy - no idea why it occurred ? - possibly bubble in casting (FL has done 208,000 Km ! - ) now fine and perfect.
Also note the total new coreplugs...
Also note how incredibly clean the crank case is - no, it was not cleaned prior to image !!!! - that is how it was at 208K km !.

The L series is a superb unit..

added more images of motor work only (lots more done overall!) - new clutch (LR part) new suspension, new waterpump, cambelt kit with both belts, new water transfer pipes, brakes, rear crank seal, IRD, VCU, DIFF ...... and a hell of a lot more...
But, I got a mint freelander no rot (Portugal so no salt - like new in all metal areas !)

Nice wish men looked like that ha ha
. The previous owner used chemical metal to stop the leaking core plug which didn't work so fitted new one
. I have a few more bits to do oil change and filters etc . The stripped bolts are the two inner and two outer bolts that hold the manifold on and the two bolts that hold the split section of the manifold are stripped too not the bolts but the alloy inside will give it a go don't fancy re tapping them lot of faffing about and with it being my daily driver don't get the time
Cheers j
Mine is a 1998 xedi
The pic is the filler plugging the core plug

We after taking everything off and tightening I still have the black smoke when I put my foot down
I have just stopped at the garage and left it running to look at my light and I heard a popping hissing noise so tipped a bit of water on injector no 1 and it's leaking Arrrrgh are they serviceable if I take it out and give it a clean will it stop it or am I looking at new injectors the nut was loose got a good 1/4 turn in it its improved not as much black smoke but I can hear the pressure escaping out of the injector whistling noise

Where exactly is it leaking from on the injector - is it the sealing washer at the cylinder head or the fuel line at the top ? - if in any other position on the injector body then that is a big issue because no they are not serviceable. No. 1 injector is also the expensive one.
As said No. 1 injector is a very special unit on the L series diesel - it is the injector fitted with the 'needle lift sensor' - this is absolutely critical to the operation of the unit.
What the needle lift sensor does is provide a signal to the ECU as to the precise time of the injector pulse. This is compared to the crankshaft position sensor and from these variables the precise injection timing signals can be sent to the VP37 fuel pump.

It's leaking from between the injector and the head hopefully this will solve all my woes ha ha

Nice one mate !! - in that case - I think you are on to a winner - really really best of luck !
Joe

Thanks for all your help
Joe
Will let you know how I get on

Welcome mate - !

Joe_H said:

Nice one mate !! - in that case - I think you are on to a winner - really really best of luck !
Joe

Click to expand...

Apart from replacing the leak back pipes, I've never touched the injectors. Do you remove the injector to fit these? ie the injectors tighten to them or is there a clamp/bolt that goes over the injector with this sealing washer in.

Jasonskn1972 said:

It's never ending jobs lol but it did only cost me £200 and the jobs I have done cost me nothing simple repairs apart from £1.50 for a new core plug

Click to expand...

The leak back pipes are a cheap job worth doing as preventative maintenance. They do break down over time and if 1 finally goes when you're depending n the car its a pain. You just get a length of pipe, cut the bits to size and push them on - the only trickey bit is between pots 2 & 3 - I removed the plenum chamber to get easier access - which in itself is worth doing so you can see how much soot build up there is.

BTW - I find that the air filter is quite a "smoke valve" on my L Series. I drive a lot of dusty roads and the filter gets dirty reasonably quickly - when its dirty the engine creates a lot more smoke.

Good luck for the washer fixing your problems.

GrumpyGel said:

Apart from replacing the leak back pipes, I've never touched the injectors. Do you remove the injector to fit these? ie the injectors tighten to them or is there a clamp/bolt that goes over the injector with this sealing washer in.

Click to expand...

HI GG
Hope you are well ?. the injector is held on by a clamp and a bolt and is fairly simple to remove. The sealing washer goes between the injector and the head, one important thing is that the new washer has to be fitted with the domed part facing the injector - NOT towards the head. As you have done the spill pipes, you will know that these are the banjo type fittings with two sealing washers, if copper these can be reused by re annealing them, however, the new ones are cheap and should be used.
If anyone does want to reuse a copper washer (I have done this many times but it only applies to FLAT washers !) simply heat the copper until cherry red then dip into cold water and cool off immediately - job done ! - the copper is now soft and pliable for re-use.
Also, when the HP fuel pipes are fitted, it is really important to use two spanners - one to hold the injector body and one to turn the 'nut'
And yes, certainly, removing the plenum is a very good idea....
Joe

edit - added piccy of injector fitting from RAVE

edit again - also GG, have located some more images of when the engine was out including the clutch judder discolouration we talked about - let me know if they are of use and I can add them to the original thread.