L322 gearbox?!

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vestax32

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Im new to range rovers and am about to buy a 2002 L322 HSE td6. Ive heard allsorts about the gearbox. The one im looking at has 76000 miles and has not had the gearbox done. Is this a fault with EVERY L322? Will it definitly need to be done? What are the warning signs? Can it be fixed at minimal cost if you catch it early?!
 
nothings a dead sert, theres people on other rr sites that have done 200k on the same box. take it for a test drive before buying and you shouldnt really feel the box changing, if its all good and you buy it change the oil and filter in the box soon as. i changed mine 4 times over the course of about 6 months to flush it through, i will change it once a year now to keep it nice and fresh. driving style also effects how long the box lasts, doing rapid starts has an adverse affect on the it. trying to get nearly 3 tons going like hell of the line takes it toll, be sensible and it should last indefinatly.
 
The GM 5L40-E transmission used in the TD6 (’02-‘06MY) doesn’t exactly have an enviable reputation for durability in the L322 (typically failing at between 80,000 and 100,000 miles). It’s a 360Nm rated transmission behind a 390Nm engine. The (440Nm) ZF 5HP24 unit fitted to the 4.4 V8 is more reliable but it, too, has its problems.

The main issue with the GM box appears to relate to leaking spools in the valve block through wear. This causes reduced application pressures on the clutches causing slip and – particularly with the torque converter lock-up clutch – as a result debris is generated which then contaminates the fluid, causing more problems with the valve block solenoids and ultimately transmission failure. If you’re interested I’ve documented the teardown of one of these transmissions here : http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/82777-gm-5l40-e-teardown.html

A good starting point would be to check the fluid for signs of any metallic debris. If it looks as though there’s ‘glitter’ in the fluid then, I’m afraid, it’s already too late. Changing the fluid helps alleviate the symptoms but doesn’t fix the cause.
 
The GM 5L40-E transmission used in the TD6 (’02-‘06MY) doesn’t exactly have an enviable reputation for durability in the L322 (typically failing at between 80,000 and 100,000 miles). It’s a 360Nm rated transmission behind a 390Nm engine. The (440Nm) ZF 5HP24 unit fitted to the 4.4 V8 is more reliable but it, too, has its problems.

The main issue with the GM box appears to relate to leaking spools in the valve block through wear. This causes reduced application pressures on the clutches causing slip and – particularly with the torque converter lock-up clutch – as a result debris is generated which then contaminates the fluid, causing more problems with the valve block solenoids and ultimately transmission failure. If you’re interested I’ve documented the teardown of one of these transmissions here : http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/82777-gm-5l40-e-teardown.html

A good starting point would be to check the fluid for signs of any metallic debris. If it looks as though there’s ‘glitter’ in the fluid then, I’m afraid, it’s already too late. Changing the fluid helps alleviate the symptoms but doesn’t fix the cause.


my l322 hse is on 136000 miles now and still on original gearbox as far as i know.

by the way, very good write up on that link - theres a hell of alot inside those gear boxes :p
 
I see this is an old post, but still the content is all relevant. My L322 gearbox lasted until 160k and that's continually dragging 2000kgs above it's own 3000kgs. When my gearbox was rebuilt, the expert commented that the life expectancy is very much how the car is driven, but the L322 is no worse than many other manufacturers and not necessarily expensive. Everything inside my gearbox casing is new, for £1500+vat and 12 months warranty. There is no warning it will go - mine had just smoothly climbed up into the scottish borders and then stopped when I pulled up - it sucks the debris into the filter and which cuts off the drive. It is important that you change the gearbox cooling radiator at the same time as the box rebuild and flush through the connections - this is easily missed and causes the box to overheat, all for the sake of £200.
 
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