Help TD5 immobilised!!!

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4WDtech

4WDtech

Member
Posts
11
Location
New Zealand
Hi guys, recently bought a 2002 disco 2 td5 SE. It has two key fobs that need reprogramming, but I made the mistake of locking the door with the key. Now it’s immobilised!! My alarm keeps sounding whenever I open the door. Called the dealership for the EKA code which they supplied however I don’t think it’s right, the last digit being a zero. Tried it but nogood just get the single beep. After trying this eka a few times I noticed the red alarm light stopped flashing. I was able to connect my Launch diagun and get into the BCU. Although I wasn’t able to change any settings, It told me the EKA code which was different from what the dealership gave me. It had no zeros.
I tried this EKA but still no luck, it wont let me in. I was able to confirm the plips with fobs, my scan tool recognised them but says they need programming.

I’m not sure what to do next, Unfortunately it’s stuck down my driveway with the drivers window down!
Does anyone have any ideas I’m in desperate need of help.
I can get access to an auto logic in a couple of days but, will it do the job?

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Thanks neilly, I had a read through your PDF, some very good info there. I’ve been trying the EKA for the last day or two at different times still no luck. I’m fairly certain all the components are in good condition.
 
Silly question did you follow the instructions to the letter?

A few have made the mistake of ignoring the 5 minute delay, or using D1 instructions they found online.


Cheers
 
neilly said:
Silly question did you follow the instructions to the letter?

A few have made the mistake of ignoring the 5 minute delay, or using D1 instructions they found online.


Cheers
Click to expand...

Thanks yes, I’m fairly certain I have. I followed what was in the owners manual. I get one beep on my final unlock sequence. Not the double beep. Will keep trying it, at least it’s allowing me to input an EKA.
 
I can't do it. I think my mod status is only for the Greenlaning forum .... There's no 'thread tools' button available to me now.
 
There are two ways that the EKA can be written, in decimal form (1-10) or hexadecimal form (1-9 plus a-f), zero on its own is not valid in this case.
The EKA will be four numbers, not four digits. If there's a zero somewhere in the sequence and the preceeding figure is a "1" I would suggest that the number ten is in use.
Because the electronics for the EKA is hexadecimal then the numbers even when written in decimal form could include the number 16.
That being the case, an EKA code of 16 14 12 10 while being impractical is quite valid, and when written by hand or quoted over the phone it can become difficult to determine the position of each number in the sequence, e.g. 16141210.
For security reasons, a code reader can't connect to the vehicle while it's immobilised.
@neilly, correct me if I'm wrong here, mate.
 
brian47 said:
There are two ways that the EKA can be written, in decimal form (1-10) or hexadecimal form (1-9 plus a-f), zero on its own is not valid in this case.
The EKA will be four numbers, not four digits. If there's a zero somewhere in the sequence and the preceeding figure is a "1" I would suggest that the number ten is in use.
Because the electronics for the EKA is hexadecimal then the numbers even when written in decimal form could include the number 16.
That being the case, an EKA code of 16 14 12 10 while being impractical is quite valid, and when written by hand or quoted over the phone it can become difficult to determine the position of each number in the sequence, e.g. 16141210.
For security reasons, a code reader can't connect to the vehicle while it's immobilised.
@neilly, correct me if I'm wrong here, mate.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian, I agree with you on this. The dealership obtained the code from the online Land Rover portal. They supplied me with ‘D990’
Which I translated as 13 9 9 0 but I was dubious about the zero. Anyhow I couldn’t get this to function. I’m thinking it could be the ignition key code?

I know in this circumstance, you shouldn’t be able to connect a code reader, but for a brief moment I was able to with my launch Diagun. Within the BCU I found the EKA code ‘7282’.
So I tried this and it still wouldn’t work? Maybe I’m inputting wrong. My key barrel is a little worn but not bad.
What do you make of my code from the dealership? on the phone the guy was a little hazy about this.

Thanks
 
4WDtech said:
Thanks Brian, I agree with you on this. The dealership obtained the code from the online Land Rover portal. They supplied me with ‘D990’
Which I translated as 13 9 9 0 but I was dubious about the zero. Anyhow I couldn’t get this to function. I’m thinking it could be the ignition key code?

I know in this circumstance, you shouldn’t be able to connect a code reader, but for a brief moment I was able to with my launch Diagun. Within the BCU I found the EKA code ‘7282’.
So I tried this and it still wouldn’t work? Maybe I’m inputting wrong. My key barrel is a little worn but not bad.
What do you make of my code from the dealership? on the phone the guy was a little hazy about this.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I'd agree with you that the code you were given doesn't look right. You also say that neither of your fobs work, so that could be a job that needs addressing asap. With neither fob disengaging the central locking/immobiliser it suggests that there could be a fault in the RF receiver in the vehicle.
You could go back to the main dealer and query the code they've given you.
Regarding inputting the code, follow @neilly's instructions to the letter, the slightest deviation will mean starting again.
 
brian47 said:
I'd agree with you that the code you were given doesn't look right. You also say that neither of your fobs work, so that could be a job that needs addressing asap. With neither fob disengaging the central locking/immobiliser it suggests that there could be a fault in the RF receiver in the vehicle.
You could go back to the main dealer and query the code they've given you.
Regarding inputting the code, follow @neilly's instructions to the letter, the slightest deviation will mean starting again.
Click to expand...

Yes I’ll give the dealership another call, I’ve replaced the batteries within the fobs. Will look at the condition of the rf receiver. I’m going to get someone with an auto logic to come round tomorrow. Will see what can be done.
Thanks both for your help
Awesome
 
Got it kinda sorted in the end, I need new key fobs. One is completely knackered and the other one is just about to fall to bits. I noticed that I could’nt get the light to function on the fob when pressing the unlock button. So when I took it apart I found that the solder has broken away. I managed to move the button and stick my arm through my open window near the RF and boom! It worked! Very lucky to say the least, will get new fobs and see if my RF range improves.
 
4WDtech said:
Got it kinda sorted in the end, I need new key fobs. One is completely knackered and the other one is just about to fall to bits. I noticed that I could’nt get the light to function on the fob when pressing the unlock button. So when I took it apart I found that the solder has broken away. I managed to move the button and stick my arm through my open window near the RF and boom! It worked! Very lucky to say the least, will get new fobs and see if my RF range improves.
Click to expand...

The short range of the fob to the RF receiver has in many cases in the past been due to a poor earth at the receiver.
The securing bolt, if that is the model that you have isn't just a physical mount but it's also an earth connection. The condition must be spotless, even if it works for the vehicle power, radio frequencies behave differently and that bolt can become critical.
 
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