got a new toy but broke it

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peterz3

Member
Posts
11
Location
shropshire
picked up a 1998 disco tdi ES on Monday after chopping in a freelander that swmbo wanted, nice to be back in one after 8 years but yesterday she would not start and got me stuck in a sainsburys car park, RAC came out and got her started by jumping the starter solinoid go get me home, today after looking at the haynes book I find the feed wire on the starter solinoid is brown/red not the white/red in the book also I can't find the starter relay had a look under the glove box found the alarm box (green box with 2 plugs) but none of the relays there mach the wiring diagrams found 1 that looked ok but it's for the abs, I have done a search on line seems that I'm not alone with this problem but how do you bypass the immobiliser to get the starter relay working
cheers peterz3
 
In a RRC its behind a black box on the bulkhead passenger side in the engine bay, not sure where they put them in modern cars like yours.

Well done escaping the freelander, least now you can hold your head up with pride whilst your walking.
 
You will find the starter relay behind the drivers kick panel, in the centre of the three on the lower level, coloured yellow if original.
To bypass, install an ignition switched fused supply to the relay, but first check that the fob and its battery are okay.
 
Do the later tdi models have the spider in the dash same as earlier 300?
 
Suggest you clean and check the small Lucar connection to the starter motor. Small single (brown?) wire next to the gurt big battery connection under the front right hand side of the engine.
 
just had a look under the kick pannel driver side only a fuse box there ,on the passenger's side along with the green box (alarm) there are three relays 2 yellow mid one black none have the correct colour wires the mid one is for the abs pump , any one got an idea where the start relay is?
peterz3
 
been thinking about this type of problem looking at the wiring diagram it look like the earth from the start relay goes to the immobiliser so the alarm system will stop the starter relay from energising, untill it's unlocked, seen that some folk have run a feed through a fused switch to the starter solinoid , what is wrong with just fitting aseparate earth to the starter relay bypassing the immobiliser, or does that earth do some thing else in the immobiliser?
peterz3
 
found the relay I was looking in the wrong place I also found a load of mud and rust under the carpets by the kick panel and the under lay soaking wet on both front floors seems the seller was telling porkies as he said it hadn't been off road and the sun roofs didn't leak, fortunately the rust is light with just 2 small holes(2p size) where the floor had been pushed up I think by poor jacking as both sides are holed in the same area nice easy to patch though
peterz3
 
found the relay I was looking in the wrong place I also found a load of mud and rust under the carpets by the kick panel and the under lay soaking wet on both front floors seems the seller was telling porkies as he said it hadn't been off road and the sun roofs didn't leak, fortunately the rust is light with just 2 small holes(2p size) where the floor had been pushed up I think by poor jacking as both sides are holed in the same area nice easy to patch though
peterz3

its a design feature. Water ingress there can be from the windscreen, or the bulkhead joints.
 
found the relay I was looking in the wrong place I also found a load of mud and rust under the carpets by the kick panel and the under lay soaking wet on both front floors seems the seller was telling porkies as he said it hadn't been off road and the sun roofs didn't leak, fortunately the rust is light with just 2 small holes(2p size) where the floor had been pushed up I think by poor jacking as both sides are holed in the same area nice easy to patch though
peterz3

It's a Discovery ... when they are made LR put a special seed in the corners of the footwells, these can grow quite rapidly and as they collect mud and rust ... seems you were lucky only to have had two small seedlings left ...:eek::D
 
I'd check the sills before you decide that two small patches will do ...

Plus the boot, rear wheelarches, front inner wings and the bottom of the b pillars where the seatbelts bolt in.

Apart from that all should be good.......................:D:D

Cheers
 
sills good, rear cross member ok surface rust in some places, repaired body suport n/s rear, inner front wings good, chassis very good ,o/s wheel arch good, rear floor very good, n/s wheel arch bit of rust where it meets the foor just a bit of cut out neaded and plated ,seats are still good ,exhaust looks new , even the body paint is still in good nick no dinks or marks it's just the front floors that seem to have got very wet so I've taken out the carpet and under sound proof foam (very wet) letting it dry out before I repair things
peterz3
 
Plus the boot, rear wheelarches, front inner wings and the bottom of the b pillars where the seatbelts bolt in.

Apart from that all should be good.......................:D:D

Cheers

Middle of rear floor where seat-belt anchors go through to chassis ... and I can't remember if that one has a tank strap ...
 
I had to bypass the immobiliser on my 96 ES pretty sure it was deep behind the heater controls. Bypass plug was about £5.

Had to drop my tank on my 300 tdi to weld inside of the chasis and it did have straps.
 
sorted found the starter relay cut the black/orange wire that goes to the immobiliser put a bullet connector onto it then a new wire to a good earth behind the dash bingo starts on the first turn of the key , they say every cloud has a siver lining, as I took all the side kick pannels out I found some rust on looking further both front floors have a couple of small rust holes and surface rust so over the last 2 days I've cleaned things up treated the rust areas and on Fri day do a bit of welding just in time to take our dogs (labs) to the beach
peterz3
 
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