Freelander 1 Tailgate WindowI have

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The Cumbrian

The Cumbrian

Member
Posts
24
Location
Cumbria
I have seen lots of discussions regarding tailgate window problems, but dont seem to see the problem I have. My window seems to have a mind of its own - most of the time it only comes down about 1/4 inch which is just enough to clear the top recess and then I have to press on the glass when shutting the door. Other times it will shoot up on the outside of the recess and i have to use the interior switch to lower and raise it again ( it slots in correctly when I do this). I have done all the suggested resets and adjustments recommended and fear that some component is failing -But which one ! Initially, could someone tell me which components activate the 1 inch drop down of the window, I have never worked out how it does it and never seen anywhere where it is described. Sorry to be long winded but its a pain in the ****.
 
Hello

For the boot window most of the case, the Window accuator is in cause / or a broken electrical wire. Closing the door should rise the window. Opening the boot door should lower it.

When closing the boot door, do you have a door warning on the Dashboard ? If not check the wires in the boot doors. You could also check the window accuator when the door trim is removed.
 
When closing the door, the glass should only rise after the door is latched closed, not before.

When it does rise, and it goes the wrong side of the recess, this is a purely 'mechanical' issue.

The runners being out of alignment - either badly adjusted, worn or there is damage to the door - eg reversed into something and its dented.

Actually I don't even know if it can be adjusted or is manufactured to fit.

It could also be that the glass isn't secured to the mounts fully.

What ever if the door closes before the glass rises, it isn't an electrical issue.
 
I do have a connected issue: open the door, glass is going down as it should, but the next moment rises maybe 1cm. When I want to close it, I press the handle again and it goes down a bit and door closes normaly.
Any thought?
Sorry if hijacked..

Stefan
 
The Pilgrim said:
I do have a connected issue: open the door, glass is going down as it should, but the next moment rises maybe 1cm. When I want to close it, I press the handle again and it goes down a bit and door closes normaly.
Any thought?
Sorry if hijacked..

Stefan
Click to expand...
Normally the problem with sensors in doors is that the computers think the door is open when its not.

Sounds like maybe you have the reverse - the sensor has failed showing the door closed (so raises the window) when it is actually open.

Does the door open light come on when the back door is opened? Does it go out when it raises the cm? (obviously other doors must be shut!)
 
The Cumbrian said:
I have seen lots of discussions regarding tailgate window problems, but dont seem to see the problem I have. My window seems to have a mind of its own - most of the time it only comes down about 1/4 inch which is just enough to clear the top recess and then I have to press on the glass when shutting the door. Other times it will shoot up on the outside of the recess and i have to use the interior switch to lower and raise it again ( it slots in correctly when I do this). I have done all the suggested resets and adjustments recommended and fear that some component is failing -But which one ! Initially, could someone tell me which components activate the 1 inch drop down of the window, I have never worked out how it does it and never seen anywhere where it is described. Sorry to be long winded but its a pain in the ****.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the replies. As I said previously, I have done all the checks suggested and all is OK. I need to understand what components physically actuate the window drop when opening the door. I know the microswitch is OK and it powers the solenoid OK to release the door catch, but what makes the window drop ? If I know that I can investigate and repair /replace any faulty component
 
As you've read many discussions about the rear window, you will know what makes the window drop. You may be over thinking it.

The micro switch in the handle sends a signal to the CCU.

The CCU activates the motor to lower the window.

The CCU then sends power to the solenoid in the latch to open the door.

The sensor in the latch tells the CCU the door is open - this giving the light on the dash.

When the door is closed, the latch in the lock tells the CCU it is close, the dash light goes out and it powers the motor to raise the window.

I don't believe there is a direct connection from CCU to motor, the connection goes via relays (possibly 1 double relay) behind the trim by the door hinges.

I believe there is a hall effect sensor in there somewhere to know how much the motor has rotated and therefore how far the window has travelled.
 
GrumpyGel said:
As you've read many discussions about the rear window, you will know what makes the window drop. You may be over thinking it.

The micro switch in the handle sends a signal to the CCU.

The CCU activates the motor to lower the window.

The CCU then sends power to the solenoid in the latch to open the door.

The sensor in the latch tells the CCU the door is open - this giving the light on the dash.

When the door is closed, the latch in the lock tells the CCU it is close, the dash light goes out and it powers the motor to raise the window.

I don't believe there is a direct connection from CCU to motor, the connection goes via relays (possibly 1 double relay) behind the trim by the door hinges.

I believe there is a hall effect sensor in there somewhere to know how much the motor has rotated and therefore how far the window has travelled.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed answer. The bit that I did not know and never seen in the forum, is that the CCU activates the motor to lower the window. I was thinking that maybe there was a physical reaction to the door latch opening utilizing the tensioner springs on the cable. Looks like I need to give the CCU a coat of looking at.
 
The Cumbrian said:
Thanks for the detailed answer. The bit that I did not know and never seen in the forum, is that the CCU activates the motor to lower the window. I was thinking that maybe there was a physical reaction to the door latch opening utilizing the tensioner springs on the cable. Looks like I need to give the CCU a coat of looking at.
Click to expand...
TBH the CCU is probably the last thing to fail.

If it had a problem, likelihood is that all sorts of things would be failing on the car as it controls most things that have wires controlling them.
 
I have a rear window issue as well. However, I stumbled on this video on Youtube. It's from "comeinhandynow" - use this link.
Watch the entire thing or Scroll to 14:20 and watch from there. The fellow notices a problem which matches my problem. It's to do with a small ratchet adjuster below the window's electric motor.
 
htr said:
I have a rear window issue as well. However, I stumbled on this video on Youtube. It's from "comeinhandynow" - use this link.
Watch the entire thing or Scroll to 14:20 and watch from there. The fellow notices a problem which matches my problem. It's to do with a small ratchet adjuster below the window's electric motor.
Click to expand...
The problem is that changing the cable, doesn’t always work. There are some plastics parts that broke.
All the plastics parts doesn’t come with a replacement cable.
Remember also that it’s only made to work with an original window regulator …
 
Last edited:
For someone that never done a window regulator it’s better to replace the full window regulator. Removing the window regulator and putting back it in place is a pain, unless you’re used to it.

You can buy a window regulator without the motor, if you want to save money …

1 Take the trim out with care and caution, plastics retrainer or worst the trim can break.
2 Cut the plastic film if it is still there.
3 You can leave the window in place but you need to secure it very well, a falling window is not an option.
Better to remove the window just don’t break the heating connetor.
4 Remove the window regulator.
5 Compare the new one with the previous one, test the new one before putting it in place, to see if it works corretly.
 
Last edited:
Alteredtech said:
For someone that never done a window regulator it’s better to replace the full window regulator. Removing the window regulator and putting back it in place is a pain, unless you’re used to it.

You can buy a window regulator without the motor, if you want to save money …

1 Take the trim out with care and caution, plastics retrainer or worst the trim can break.
2 Cut the plastic film if it is still there.
3 You can leave the window in place but you need to secure it very well, a falling window is not an option.
Better to remove the window just don’t break the heating connetor.
4 Remove the window regulator.
5 Compare the new one with the previous one, test the new one before putting it in place, to see if it works corretly.
Click to expand...
 
After Christmas (expense ) I am going to get a new regulator with motor. I have replaced the complete regulator a few years ago. Yes it is a bit of a pain adjusting, but thats what I have been doing now anyway. At the moment my routine is - turn ignition on - drop window a bit with switch - turn off ignition- open tailgate - shut tailgate - close window with key. As an aside, I just met a chap who told me he got rid of his Freelander because the tailgate window drove him mad. My wife says I should take it up on the fell with a gallon of petrol but I say its a waste of £6.
 
The Cumbrian said:
My wife says I should take it up on the fell with a gallon of petrol but I say its a waste of £6.
Click to expand...
Certainly not, especially as you can get more for scrap weight. Can't be that hard to fix it though. All the procedures for remove & refit the glass & regulator are in RAVE.
 
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