EAS Problem - Need experts advise

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He has 2 problems, dropping is likely to be a leaking airbag, the other problem is likely to be a height sensor, going up to max height is the response of the EAS to an out of range reading on a height sensor, or just possibly a driver pack failure, so basically, you concur with what has already been said:)
I had problems with my p38 a week after purchase. Having spent most of my money on the car and the fact that there are many expensive things to go wrong with the eas, i cut my losses and changed over to springs. Not going to have any more expensive problem with suspension and the only drawback is, its a bit higher to get in!
 
I had problems with my p38 a week after purchase. Having spent most of my money on the car and the fact that there are many expensive things to go wrong with the eas, i cut my losses and changed over to springs. Not going to have any more expensive problem with suspension and the only drawback is, its a bit higher to get in!


ya should of bought a cheap programme and plug and lead off ebay for around £20 :D
 
I had problems with my p38 a week after purchase. Having spent most of my money on the car and the fact that there are many expensive things to go wrong with the eas, i cut my losses and changed over to springs. Not going to have any more expensive problem with suspension and the only drawback is, its a bit higher to get in!
Very little is expensive to repair on the EAS if you DIY, most can be restored to full operation for less than the cost of a coil conversion:D
 
Driving down a motorway at 70mph on your new higher springing maybe interesting IF you have to take sudden evasive action. EAS has a motorway height setting for a very good reason. Something to do with C of G rolly/polly and things like that. Happy days.:(:(:(
 
He has 2 problems, dropping is likely to be a leaking airbag, the other problem is likely to be a height sensor, going up to max height is the response of the EAS to an out of range reading on a height sensor, or just possibly a driver pack failure, so basically, you concur with what has already been said:)

My rear n/s corner drops when parked sometimes, but not always. I've concluded that it's an intermittent leak inside the valve block, presumably caused by a hard o ring (although it does seem to do it more when parked on a side slope!). I must get round to overhauling it sometime - I've been trying to buy a 2nd hand valve block to overhaul so I can just swap them over but they always end up going for silly money on fleabag.

The Rangey raising itself to max height is simply the soft fault mode. Don't read anything more into it. It can be caused by any number of reported fault conditions. A hard fault will result in it dropping to the bump stops.

As for valves sticking open, mine also reported this once in very heavy rain. Pretty sure it was just water getting into the height sensor connection though and it's never done it since. Hard to see how they can stick open unless your dryer is disintegrating.

Guy
 
My rear n/s corner drops when parked sometimes, but not always. I've concluded that it's an intermittent leak inside the valve block, presumably caused by a hard o ring (although it does seem to do it more when parked on a side slope!). I must get round to overhauling it sometime - I've been trying to buy a 2nd hand valve block to overhaul so I can just swap them over but they always end up going for silly money on fleabag.

The Rangey raising itself to max height is simply the soft fault mode. Don't read anything more into it. It can be caused by any number of reported fault conditions. A hard fault will result in it dropping to the bump stops.

As for valves sticking open, mine also reported this once in very heavy rain. Pretty sure it was just water getting into the height sensor connection though and it's never done it since. Hard to see how they can stick open unless your dryer is disintegrating.

Guy

It won't be the valve block. That poor thing gets blamed for lots of things sadly. Get the kit and service the valve block if you must, it takes a couple of hours. But don't be surprised if your N/S side corner still drops.
 
It won't be the valve block. That poor thing gets blamed for lots of things sadly. Get the kit and service the valve block if you must, it takes a couple of hours. But don't be surprised if your N/S side corner still drops.

Can't think what else it could be. I've been over the whole airline from the block to the spring and can't find any leaks.

It does drop almost immediately on that corner when parking sometimes and that corner does feel 'soft' too when driving so mebbe the height sensor is a bit worn... I'll try resetting the heights when I've managed to find a bit of level ground close to an electrical outlet (laptop battery knackered and all our parking in on a slope).

Anyway, didn't mean to hijack the thread.
 
Can't think what else it could be. I've been over the whole airline from the block to the spring and can't find any leaks.

It does drop almost immediately on that corner when parking sometimes and that corner does feel 'soft' too when driving so mebbe the height sensor is a bit worn... I'll try resetting the heights when I've managed to find a bit of level ground close to an electrical outlet (laptop battery knackered and all our parking in on a slope).

Anyway, didn't mean to hijack the thread.

Well think what has to be leaking in the valve block to cause that. There would need to be more than one O ring duff. How do you mean soft? The EAS has no way of knowing how much air pressure is in the bag at any time. Don't know how one corner could be soft. Air is let in until the sensor reads a certain parameter that is all the EAS knows. If you put two bags of cement in the O/S of your boot there will be more pressure in O/S air bag than in the N/S, but the car will still be level. If you take them out the sensor reading changes so air is let out until the sensor reads it's normal setting and car levels again. Bags can leak depending on where they are sat, if none are leaking the attitude the car is parked at should not matter. There is no level sensor in the EAS, so if the car is on a slope, the EAS does not wake up and think to itself i am on a slope let's level things up. It only works off sensor readings. If it was parked on the side of Everest and no leaks had taken place, the sensor reading were the same as when it went to sleep, no change would take place on wake up.
 
Well think what has to be leaking in the valve block to cause that. There would need to be more than one O ring duff. How do you mean soft? The EAS has no way of knowing how much air pressure is in the bag at any time. Don't know how one corner could be soft. Air is let in until the sensor reads a certain parameter that is all the EAS knows. If you put two bags of cement in the O/S of your boot there will be more pressure in O/S air bag than in the N/S, but the car will still be level. If you take them out the sensor reading changes so air is let out until the sensor reads it's normal setting and car levels again. Bags can leak depending on where they are sat, if none are leaking the attitude the car is parked at should not matter. There is no level sensor in the EAS, so if the car is on a slope, the EAS does not wake up and think to itself i am on a slope let's level things up. It only works off sensor readings. If it was parked on the side of Everest and no leaks had taken place, the sensor reading were the same as when it went to sleep, no change would take place on wake up.

Good point. I had wondered how it did the self levelling - so it's all down to the height sensors? As soon as I switch off it seems to go into a clicking frenzy (EAS solenoids) and that's usually how it ends up - with that rear corner down. Maybe there's a poor connection to that height sensor which is only apparent with the lower battery voltage when the engine isn't running...

Airbags were all replaced last year, but the compressor does run more often than I think it should. Neither myself nor my indie can find any leaks anywhere though.

As for it feeling soft, it's hard to describe - it just feels soft on that corner on bumps and bends etc. Maybe the damper is shot - they're on my list to change at some point.

It's all good fun.
 
Good point. I had wondered how it did the self levelling - so it's all down to the height sensors? As soon as I switch off it seems to go into a clicking frenzy (EAS solenoids) and that's usually how it ends up - with that rear corner down. Maybe there's a poor connection to that height sensor which is only apparent with the lower battery voltage when the engine isn't running...

Airbags were all replaced last year, but the compressor does run more often than I think it should. Neither myself nor my indie can find any leaks anywhere though.

As for it feeling soft, it's hard to describe - it just feels soft on that corner on bumps and bends etc. Maybe the damper is shot - they're on my list to change at some point.

It's all good fun.

I would suggest you have a defective shock and probably a defective sensor. According to some of the blurb I have read, the EAS can, up to a point, cope with intermittant resistnance errors on a single sensor.
Battery is shot on my laptop too, I bought a PSU that plugs into the cigarette lighter and powers the laptop through the normal power input. cost about £12:D
 
Good point. I had wondered how it did the self levelling - so it's all down to the height sensors? As soon as I switch off it seems to go into a clicking frenzy (EAS solenoids) and that's usually how it ends up - with that rear corner down. Maybe there's a poor connection to that height sensor which is only apparent with the lower battery voltage when the engine isn't running...

Airbags were all replaced last year, but the compressor does run more often than I think it should. Neither myself nor my indie can find any leaks anywhere though.

As for it feeling soft, it's hard to describe - it just feels soft on that corner on bumps and bends etc. Maybe the damper is shot - they're on my list to change at some point.

It's all good fun.

Think you may have a sensor that depending on conditions reads the same parameter at different levels. I have one on mine, N/S rear that plays up now and again when it's wet. But it goes the other way, makes that corner higher than it should be. Slop in linkages may also cause problems to a certain degree when parking up. Summer job though,sod it til weather gets better. As you and Data say more than likely a shocker on it's way home.
 
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Think you may have a sensor that depending on conditions reads the same parameter at different levels. I have one on mine, N/S rear that plays up now and again when it's wet. But it goes the other way, makes that corner higher than it should be. Slop in linkages may also cause problems to a certain degree when parking up. Summer job though,sod it til weather gets better. As you and Data say more than likely a shocker on it's way home.

Exactly the same n/s rear plays up when wet and I agree whole heartedly it is def a summer job
 
Hi,

Right bought a cable and waiting for it to be delivered.

In the mean time I contacted the specialist who diagnosed the main air inlet valve was stuck open and a new block was needed at a cost of £500 plus fitting. I asked whether if it could be the nearside height sensor due to the slight knock I had repaired. He explained that it was not and needs a new block as the diagnostics they use are what Land Rover use and detects the direct problem, if the problem was with the height sensors the diagnostics would have listed it as. I did ask if that was the case can the block be repaired, he said no, by trying it would meen you would open up all types of problems.

I appreciate the mechanic has probably superior diagnostics to what is on offer free from the web, but is what I'm being told true?

The car still remains high in the air after 5 days and when driven you can hear the compressor working and a clicking noise from the front nearside.

I have checked to see if it is a leak and it's not.

My logical (and i'd admit novice) thinking suggests the height sensor has been damaged internally as a result of the knock. Would you agree? If so, how can I check?

Really do appreciate everyones help on this one.
 
Hi,

Right bought a cable and waiting for it to be delivered.

In the mean time I contacted the specialist who diagnosed the main air inlet valve was stuck open and a new block was needed at a cost of £500 plus fitting. I asked whether if it could be the nearside height sensor due to the slight knock I had repaired. He explained that it was not and needs a new block as the diagnostics they use are what Land Rover use and detects the direct problem, if the problem was with the height sensors the diagnostics would have listed it as. I did ask if that was the case can the block be repaired, he said no, by trying it would meen you would open up all types of problems.

I appreciate the mechanic has probably superior diagnostics to what is on offer free from the web, but is what I'm being told true?

The car still remains high in the air after 5 days and when driven you can hear the compressor working and a clicking noise from the front nearside.

I have checked to see if it is a leak and it's not.

My logical (and i'd admit novice) thinking suggests the height sensor has been damaged internally as a result of the knock. Would you agree? If so, how can I check?

Really do appreciate everyones help on this one.

Your specialist is talking Bollox, the valve block can be overhauled for about £20, but as I think Wammers explained, the problem you have is unlikely to be the valve block. The clicking is the suspension trying to level itself. If it's working overtime then it is usually due to a leak in an airbag or pipe, but there other possible causes. I doubt the height sensor has been dmaged due to the knock, but it is quite like it has failed due to wear.
Charging you £500 for a valve block is probably just to cover the time needed to find the actual problem.:eek:
The diagnostics will show many faults correctly, it will also at times show other faults that are not the direct problem but are the indirect result of a problem. The skill is in interpreting the fault codes.
Read your faults when you get the cable, post them on here and many will tell you what is likely to be the problem
 
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Your mechanic is indeed talking ****e. The free software will give you exactly the same fault codes as his Testbook, T4, Autologic, Faultmate or whatever. Get the codes, post them up and we will crack on and get her sorted for a fraction of what he quoted.
 
Hi guy's I have a P38/4.6 with LPG on a P reg
my height thingy is all over the place, sometimes it stays up 3 or 4 day no problems then it will go down as soon as i swich the enginine off. the EAS has come up with fault a couple of times but thay have cleared after a stop & start with a gap of 15 mins

The BIG problem is a missfire. all the mechanical bits are in good order - valve timing, pressure testing all good but No8 is firing on inlet and even the garage are having problems identifying the source of the problem.

They've replaced coils and some of the sensors but it's made no difference - can anybody out ther help please or at least give me some ideas where I can look next. I live in the M29 area of Manchester.

Thanks - Stu
 
Hi guy's I have a P38/4.6 with LPG on a P reg
my height thingy is all over the place, sometimes it stays up 3 or 4 day no problems then it will go down as soon as i swich the enginine off. the EAS has come up with fault a couple of times but thay have cleared after a stop & start with a gap of 15 mins

The BIG problem is a missfire. all the mechanical bits are in good order - valve timing, pressure testing all good but No8 is firing on inlet and even the garage are having problems identifying the source of the problem.

They've replaced coils and some of the sensors but it's made no difference - can anybody out ther help please or at least give me some ideas where I can look next. I live in the M29 area of Manchester.

Thanks - Stu

Just a long shot but try changing the plug in number 8. It maybe soft and have a sharp edge that is glowing igniting the mixture. Or it maybe glowing combustion deposits in that cylinder.
 
Hi guy's I have a P38/4.6 with LPG on a P reg
my height thingy is all over the place, sometimes it stays up 3 or 4 day no problems then it will go down as soon as i swich the enginine off. the EAS has come up with fault a couple of times but thay have cleared after a stop & start with a gap of 15 mins

The BIG problem is a missfire. all the mechanical bits are in good order - valve timing, pressure testing all good but No8 is firing on inlet and even the garage are having problems identifying the source of the problem.

They've replaced coils and some of the sensors but it's made no difference - can anybody out ther help please or at least give me some ideas where I can look next. I live in the M29 area of Manchester.

Thanks - Stu

It's a fair bet your EAS problem is leaking airbags if they are originals:eek:
 
Hi guy's I have a P38/4.6 with LPG on a P reg
my height thingy is all over the place, sometimes it stays up 3 or 4 day no problems then it will go down as soon as i swich the enginine off. the EAS has come up with fault a couple of times but thay have cleared after a stop & start with a gap of 15 mins

The BIG problem is a missfire. all the mechanical bits are in good order - valve timing, pressure testing all good but No8 is firing on inlet and even the garage are having problems identifying the source of the problem.

They've replaced coils and some of the sensors but it's made no difference - can anybody out ther help please or at least give me some ideas where I can look next. I live in the M29 area of Manchester.

Thanks - Stu

hi stu v8,i also live in m29,tyldesley,just behind the garage car sales called exchange and mart.if i can help you out just get in touch via aPM.pm is a private message on here,cheers,gemsdad.
 
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