DPF Claim

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Mr steve

Member
Posts
11
Location
Lancashire
There is plenty in the news about the scheme to make a claim for a faulty DPF,
Has anyone made a claim and where is the best place to go to start a claim, I’m sceptical about these no win no fee sites and I don’t have much faith in JLR dealerships so any guidance would be appreciated,
 
Mr steve said:
The DPF light came on I had it to the garage they plugged it in did a reset 2 days later it came on again🙄
Click to expand...
A 'reset' will not fix anything, it needs a forced regen to reduce the soot level and live values checked to ensure it's not a defective differential pressure sensor etc. causing an erroneous warning.
Try taking it somewhere that knows what they're doing.
 
Graculus said:
A 'reset' will not fix anything, it needs a forced regen to reduce the soot level and live values checked to ensure it's not a defective differential pressure sensor etc. causing an erroneous warning.
Try taking it somewhere that knows what they're doing.
Click to expand...
Yeah it was a forced regen but not cured it
 
Did you see the live data or was it done without your presence?
The dpf pressure should be as low as possible at idle, around 1-2mbar. Then read again at 2000rpm. A high figure at idle above 8-10mbar will show a partial blockage. Reseting the light just makes the system re access its self leading to the same result.
There is a spray I've used at the garage to help clean out a clogged dpf a few times and once on a d4 with the same issues.
If you have a freind with diagnostics check the differential pressure at idle and engine warm also note the weight of the ash in the dpf then do a regen after checking the engine oil level and compare results.
If it starts to drop after a regen then you have two choices. A cleaning agent to speed up the clearing of soot or at least once a month give it a good run out and as suggested start driving it with a little more vigueur 👍
Failing that and the soot levels don't drop or the pressure doesn't change a more in depth approach may be needed.
Depending on the fault, the differential pressure sensor should be checked for blockage or an internal fault🤔
We had a bmw x1 at the garage with a completely blocked dpf. This thing wouldn't even run or idle it was so clogged... A new dpf followed... What a crap job that was to do🤯
 
Mark Piercy said:
Did you see the live data or was it done without your presence?
The dpf pressure should be as low as possible at idle, around 1-2mbar. Then read again at 2000rpm. A high figure at idle above 8-10mbar will show a partial blockage. Reseting the light just makes the system re access its self leading to the same result.
There is a spray I've used at the garage to help clean out a clogged dpf a few times and once on a d4 with the same issues.
If you have a freind with diagnostics check the differential pressure at idle and engine warm also note the weight of the ash in the dpf then do a regen after checking the engine oil level and compare results.
If it starts to drop after a regen then you have two choices. A cleaning agent to speed up the clearing of soot or at least once a month give it a good run out and as suggested start driving it with a little more vigueur 👍
Failing that and the soot levels don't drop or the pressure doesn't change a more in depth approach may be needed.
Depending on the fault, the differential pressure sensor should be checked for blockage or an internal fault🤔
We had a bmw x1 at the garage with a completely blocked dpf. This thing wouldn't even run or idle it was so clogged... A new dpf followed... What a crap job that was to do🤯
Click to expand...
Are most dpf issues due to driving style rather than a specific fault, as in too short journeys and never getting up to temperature?
 
À lot of the time yes, the ecu decides when it's going to regen. Usually at a certain weight of soot or differential pressure using vehicle/engine speed. If not met or even interrupted it'll go back to waiting for the next opportunity..
Also the dpf is a consumable item and also has a shelf life like any filter.. That's why none of our vehicles are modern enough to have one. 👌
 
Anaconda said:
Are most dpf issues due to driving style rather than a specific fault, as in too short journeys and never getting up to temperature?
Click to expand...
300 to 500k on the Scania trucks
The Daf truck dpfs are longer lasting, but it is the only bit of the Daf trucks that lasts longer, if lucky 650/750k out of a dpf.

In the ops case it sounds like their dpf is fine, it is blocking up as it is not looking after itself.
 
I'd add to the above that it's not just soot from combustion that collects in the DPF, it's also ash, from burning oil (this in itself isn't a defect) using cheap or oil to the incorrect specification can significantly increase ash content - which once there, stays there.
 
Graculus said:
I'd add to the above that it's not just soot from combustion that collects in the DPF, it's also ash, from burning oil (this in itself isn't a defect) using cheap or oil to the incorrect specification can significantly increase ash content - which once there, stays there.
Click to expand...
Aha, that's the low saps oils you see advertised is it?
 
Graculus said:
Yes, but it still needs to be the correct specification, choosing the right oil by manufacturer & grade is a long gone pastime.
Click to expand...
You're right there, took me ages to find the right spec oil for a Golf I bought recently.
I don't own a modern diesel, thank goodness.
 
VW spec oil has been a 'thing' since mid to late 90's, often there are options based upon servicing regime ('Long life' 0W20 for flexible servicing - mainly an Audi thing) and territory. You'll find the more expensive grades are for territories that experience temperatures down to -35deg. C. For most of Western Europe, you could go with (for example) 5W30 rather than 0W30 as the grade, and obviously the correct specification which is generally emissions-level dependent. Of course, the dealers will go with the primary grade listed as a 'worldwide' grade rather than a market specific option, with the extra sales margin being purely coincidental....
 
Graculus said:
VW spec oil has been a 'thing' since mid to late 90's, often there are options based upon servicing regime ('Long life' 0W20 for flexible servicing - mainly an Audi thing) and territory. You'll find the more expensive grades are for territories that experience temperatures down to -35deg. C. For most of Western Europe, you could go with (for example) 5W30 rather than 0W30 as the grade, and obviously the correct specification which is generally emissions-level dependent. Of course, the dealers will go with the primary grade listed as a 'worldwide' grade rather than a market specific option, with the extra sales margin being purely coincidental....
Click to expand...
I went with a 5w30 with the correct vw spec, according to the blurb Shell put on the container.
 
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