Defender 300TDI Stop Solenoid issues

J

Jan the man

New Member

Posts

8

• Mar 11, 2018

• #1

I need help. Defender turns over well, but does not start. Believe the issue is with the Stop Solenoid wiring, as it is not giving 12 volts when ignition is turned on. It gives about 1 volt and after checking the white lead, it looks chaffed with the conductor showing. Guess it's blown a fuse, so checked and none in the cab have blown. Any ideas? I've insulated the chaffing.
Does the white lead go straight to the ignition switch or a relay? Is it best to just fit a new cable?

Thanks​

 

Roaming Wombat

Well-Known Member

Posts

424

Location

Fortress Europa

• Mar 11, 2018

• #2

Have you tried turning it over with a lead taken directly to the fuel stop solenoid from the battery to confirm the solenoid is in working order?

If you're getting 1V at the solenoid on the lead then there is a lose connection somewhere most likely, are you getting continuity on the fuel stop solenoid lead (does it bell out?) The lead comes from the ignition switch (solenoid opens with ignition on).

For the effort involved (and given the cable is already damaged) it would be worth replacing it; you know its definitely a good cable/connection then.

 

J

Jan the man

New Member

Posts

8

• Mar 11, 2018

• #3

I think it's the cable due to the low voltage. , Wasn't sure if the cable went straight to the ignition, or a relay. I've got a book that goes to 94, but this one's a 98. I've ordered the new solenoid just in case. Good idea straight from the battery, I'll try that first.
Thanks

 

J

Jan the man

New Member

Posts

8

• Mar 11, 2018

• #4

Roaming Wombat, the power goes from 0 to 1V, so must be the lead. I would have thought the chaffing would have caused a trip though.

 

Roaming Wombat

Well-Known Member

Posts

424

Location

Fortress Europa

• Mar 11, 2018

• #5

1V (11V drop) is indicative of a very poor connection such as a cable snapped internally or could be really lose on the ignition switch etc.
If the exposed conductor touched anything conductive then it would likely cause a short to Earth which would pop a fuse.

 

J

Jan the man

New Member

Posts

8

• Mar 11, 2018

• #6

It was weird, I was driving home from work, then 22 miles and it just stopped. No juddering, just pulled up. Turns over like a train. Fuses are all OK, so I'll do as you mentioned Wombat and fit that wire.

 

Kwakerman

Well-Known Member

Posts

3,278

Location

Hampshire

• Mar 12, 2018

• #7

If the 'hot wire' works, and you have a factory alarm, it could be that could be causing it as it suffers from dry solder joints at this age. Do you have a small black metal box on the front wall of the battery box? If so give it a good clout with a rubber mallet and try to start it. If it does then you need to resolder the relays. Fairly easy to get the box is out but then you need to grind the rivets holding the box bottom cover, take out the plastic box inside, resolder and reassemble. This can also be the cause of no starter motor as there are two relays (starter and solenoid). The rubber mallet trick doesn't always work so even if it doesn't you may still need to strip it down.