Any tips for reattaching bell housing?

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Elwood Balboa

Banned
Posts
139
Location
Sussex
I have been trying all day to get the bell housing back on, but everytime I think its there, I find a 1/4" gap, and if I try and tighten any bolts, it nips up on something and prevents it from turning, all I can think of is that in the farting about trying to get the gear and conical bit to mesh up with the primary pinion gear whilst marrying up with the layshaft splines, I'm knocking the layshaft out of it's recess, does anyone know any easier way, please, please before I go on a killing spree.
 
I have been trying all day to get the bell housing back on, but everytime I think its there, I find a 1/4" gap, and if I try and tighten any bolts, it nips up on something and prevents it from turning, all I can think of is that in the farting about trying to get the gear and conical bit to mesh up with the primary pinion gear whilst marrying up with the layshaft splines, I'm knocking the layshaft out of it's recess, does anyone know any easier way, please, please before I go on a killing spree.

turn the crank a bit
 
Thanks Sirus, I tried that but nothing was working, then I took the lay shaft out to examine it, and noticed the roller bearings on the end were kind of tapering out towards the bottom, so I went round and gently nipped the little tags that hold them in together slightly and it suddenly sat in the recess perfectly, then tied a length of washing line to hold the gear just where it fits on the splines, balanced the conical bit on top, carefully hooked the primary pinion gear under it, stuck a length of bar through the layshaft bearing to try and keep the shaft central, then pulled out the line, ta da, just like it said in the manual, all gears are now selectable, now I just need a tip for selecting two gears together to lock the box up so I can tighten the bolt, it currently seems impossible, as soon as I get one in, I'm unable to select another.
 
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Assuming you've put the forks back in, and the lid on.
You'll need to pop the top off again and remove the interlocking plungers (round ended cylinders that sit between the selection shafts).
You should be able to engage two gears at the same time, top and first worked best for me, but it can take some time to find the right spot.
 
Assuming you've put the forks back in, and the lid on.
You'll need to pop the top off again and remove the interlocking plungers (round ended cylinders that sit between the selection shafts).
You should be able to engage two gears at the same time, top and first worked best for me, but it can take some time to find the right spot.

Thanks, but I couldn't be arsed anymore, so I got my mate round with his nut gun, wedged the back and zipped it up. Just got to put all the levers and linkages back on now, bleed the clutch, put the floor and seats back in, then whizz off down to the coast to enjoy the weather, or am I being a bit too optimistic.
 
Okay, I was being optimistic, it's not raining, but I just got all the linkages back on, and hoo fooking ray, it moved, however, I think I've lost a washer, that goes between the handbrake pivot bit and the circlip on the end, and I've also been waiting over a week for the shim washer that goes between the lock tab and the rear output gear from those turds at craddocks, who swear blind that they've posted it, but I'm sure they couldn't be bothered to post a 25p washer, despite me paying £3 postage. Does anyone happen to have either of these things, I'll gladly pay to get this bar steward back on the road before the kids holidays finish.
 
Hello everyone and apologies for the above rant, I had a few celebration drinks. I took it out for a drive today, and it had a bit of a whine to begin with, but that went, however, it has a bit of a rattle on the over run in 4th, and it gets stuck in reverse, does anyone have any clues why this could be? I'm hoping it's to do with the selectors, I have to turn the engine off and keep clutching and yanking at it to get it out of gear, it doesn't always do it, about 7 out of 10 times.
 
The fronts of the selection shafts could be getting bound up when you select reverse. If you took the forks off the selection shafts, then they need to be lined up and the fork bolts tightened after you have all the bits back together.

I can have a look tonight for that shim if you still need it?
 
The fronts of the selection shafts could be getting bound up when you select reverse. If you took the forks off the selection shafts, then they need to be lined up and the fork bolts tightened after you have all the bits back together.

I can have a look tonight for that shim if you still need it?

I didn't take the forks off, but I'm going to adjust the reverse selector later on because it seems that if I don't clunk it right into reverse then there is kind of a sweet spot where it doesn't get stuck. Yes, I am still after that shim please, it is so annoying because I know as soon as I have it I'll find ten just like it in the garage, if you have one then superb, thanks, and I'll set about gathering some dog turds to post off to Craddocks. Any ideas on the noisy over run?
 
Found the bit. PM me and I'll pop it in the post.

Not sure about the noise, could be so many things!
 
Hello everyone, I've been in the gearbox and found that the stop screw for reverse doesn't come out far enough to get to the end of the selector shaft, all the shafts are lined up properly and all the gears engage and disengage apart from reverse, and it really does seem like it just goes in to far, should I just try and find a longer screw? or is there something more? thanks.
 
Hi Elwood,
Did you ever get a response to your query about the reverse selector stop screw? I have a similar question - somebody just simply put a 10 mm screw in there rather than the longer, proper set screw that the manual shows. I'm wondering if it's really required...
Thanks and good luck with yours,
Steve
Amsterdam
 
Regarding the reverse selector - did you put the selector fork on the correct side of reverse gear? IIRC when I rebuilt my box a few weeks ago (running very sweetly now - that is till I stripped the engine) then the selector fork wants to go behind the gear (I had to shove a screw-driver down and push the gear forwards into the correct place).

I put it the wrong side first and found that (with the box out of the vehicle) it was engaging things but it wasn't doing so reliably - then discovered my problem. When you put the forks back in check the alignment notches in the top cover to see whether they look in the right place.
 
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