Shimsteriom
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You physically turn (tighten) the bolt by a specific number of degrees.
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Freelander 1 Air con belt snap
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Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
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No, they require tightening to a specific torque first followed by a number of degrees.
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/back-to-basics-torque-angle-explained-and-demonstrated/
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This is the locking tool. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-M47-...TOOL-WRENCH-LOCKING-HOLDING-KEY-/264384443136
You put it on the pulley, with a long tube over the handle, then rotate the pulley, allowing it to lock against the ground, or the subframe or something else solid. Then the pulley bolt can be unbolted without putting any strain on the crankshaft.
Degree rotations are used to apply the correct load on torque to yield (stretch) bolts.
You'd normally apply a moderate torque with a conventional torque wrench, then rotate the bolt a set number of degrees.
Some cylinder head bolts a did recently 80Nm of torque, then 60° rotation + another 60° rotation.
It's an accurate way to load up torque to yield bolts.
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Ah, great, thanks.
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Thanks Nodge. Very helpful, as always. I will get that tool. Not a bad price for what it does. I suppose I should get the corteco damper pulley rather than britpart, unless you or anyone else think the britpart is ok.
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I think you are right. I'm going to put the one off the spares vehicle first, just to see if it is the issue. I will need that tool, too, because I tried to rig something up today and buckled one of the flanges as I applied torque.
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Just to report back, it was the damper pulley. The rubber had completely disappeared - just two bits of metal clanking together.
Thanks for the excellent help and advice, as always.
There is just one thing, however: tightening the bolt one the replacement has me standing on a four foot breaker bar and unable to shift it further than the initial sixty degrees. Since I am already applying massive torque I am reluctant to force the issue. Is there some reason for that?
I have taken the damper pulley off a donor vehicle - it looks good for a few miles yet - and used the old bolt. I am not lubricating because I suppose it is like the driveshaft bolt - meant to be dry.
Thanks for the excellent help and advice, as always.
There is just one thing, however: tightening the bolt one the replacement has me standing on a four foot breaker bar and unable to shift it further than the initial sixty degrees. Since I am already applying massive torque I am reluctant to force the issue. Is there some reason for that?
I have taken the damper pulley off a donor vehicle - it looks good for a few miles yet - and used the old bolt. I am not lubricating because I suppose it is like the driveshaft bolt - meant to be dry.
andyfreelandy
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Maybe reusing old bolt means no stretch left !!!
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I live and learn. I did not know a bolt like that could stretch. So, then, the torque settings apply to new bolt that would stretch a bit.
I do know this - before I took the pulley off the donor car I put some kano kroil on it and let it for a couple of days. It was a LOT easier to remove than the one on the car I am sorting. I didn't use kano kroil on that because I thought it ought to be dry, else I think I would have been able to ratchet it round the final 60 and 30 degrees.
Anyhow, I talked to an old mechanic yesterday who told me I was applying nearly enough force to strip a wheel nut on a HGV, so best I stop.
