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and are they all OK? Forget about that as my mind was set for a D2, for Defender check C0362 to be well connected and continuity to the round light grey plug with one black wire behind the modulator... if all these are OK there is a bad contact on the SVS input to the ECU or ECU fault

I dont know what that plug is for but did you check the switch pack's resistances in all 3 positions before the wiring mod?

Hi, i've just seen this... how did you make the option B? did you cut out the switch pack's plug and prolonged out the wires or you spliced into them with connector left there? Some sch,ucks whodont really understand how this system work posted tutorials on the net with wires spliced into the...

That's the best thing to do cos the ECU is very suspect now

I could have bet they would based on what you said before about slightly unplugged connector while you had good live stationary readings. It's not supoosed to be any live with ignition off at the ABS sensor only 5V on one wire and between 2 - 2.3V on the other with ignition on... though to be...

In general you are spot on except this: the corrections are: 1. if it's a variation in speed signal caused by the gap while it's still within the accepted margin there will be no warning lights just the active braking modes will be mixed up in most cases TC or ABS erratic behaviour 2. once the...

Why?

Hi. You have to pedal bleed it well first as the master cylinder to pump fluid through the modulator, that's compulsory, just after that start to power bleed,... and in the correct order as in the book not randomly

Start with the towbar socket, check for corrosion, the LH and RH tail lamps have different earth points while the RH brake lamp shares the earth with the high mounted one if you see what i mean

👍...spot on

If you are so smart why do you ask? ... maybe they should be the same on a.new vehicle which leaves the factory or if all the sesors are the same brand and batch... that 0.3V margin was made with a good reason otherwise the 3 amigos woud be on 90% of the time... though maybe i'm wrong :rolleyes:

I already said, if they are all between 2 - 2.3V it passes the self test so no reason for the 3 amigos, if there are differencies within this range the TC is mixed up a bit nothing else

You can read only STATIONARY inputs

Hi, there are cases when nanocom mixes up the sensor positions with the fault code, see live stationary inputs cos those are always correct(they all should be between 2 - 2.3V) and if you see one different than the other 3 that's the real problem despite of the code... if they are all OK...

you said : which seems as a conclusion to me Then better describe with details what's going on maybe somebody knows what's your problem cos the BCU is the last suspect if the fob doesnt work

Maybe because not the BCU is the problem... how did you end up with the conclusion that if the fob dorent work the BCU is at fault?

Not if it's set like i explained here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/recommendation-for-d2-owners.184078/

If you hear activity in the latch the problem is in it, something happened there in the mechanism while it was unlocked with the key, if no sound it can be electrical and maybe your sister opened it with the key cos it failed to open with the fob

First of all explain that if it was working why was it opened with the key? ... can you hear any activity in the latch when you lock/unlock with the fob? No such thing for the driver's door

Scroll down to about 2/3 of the tutorial untill this thing is described here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Reardoor_lock.html