300 tdi I gas flowed my new cylinder head, after head gasket fail, 97 Defender pick-up Peggy

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Wagon Loon

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Location
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300 tdi I gas flowed my new cylinder head, after head gasket fail, 97 Defender pick-up Peggy
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Head gasket on Cyl 3 leaked into water system and had white smoke :eek:
Here is a pic of the failed area
1714814593801.png

Done 140,000, and pic of engine
1714814729083.png

You may be able to see piston no 3 has been steam cleaned a bit.
I was in the middle of my woodland after a 12 mile drive there, which was a little spirited. However only had Peggy for a few months and rebuilt much of the rear Chassis, installed new standard Flat Dog springs, new bump stops mounts etc. So a recent running and using as a daily driver project.
1714815351069.png

She was driving beautifully before the gasket went, although I was noticing the need to top up the water very frequently and think the leak was ongoing for some time. My spirited drive just pushed things over!

Having a young woodland is great.
1714815809771.png

But it takes a lot of time and work. I have a 1974 S3 station wagon Gigi, and she’s been awesome helping me to repair deer fencing and lots of other stuff in the woods. But I got the 300 TDI pick-up to take the load off her because she was built 50 years ago and would like to take it more easy lol
1714815990745.png

There is quite a lot of work involved , not just sticking another head on, because we're always in such a rush.
I could have just stuck a new gasket in, and it would have been fine, quick and dirty. But a 300tdi doesn't care lol.
However, I’m retired and enjoy having some fun and learning stuff. I am lucky enough to be retired and have Gigi still plus a Subaru XV to which I recently fitted Cooper all terrain tires making quite a capable combination.

I’ve got air tools and bought a dremel tool and air die grinder, and did some indepth research about getting more from my new head.

The factory castings are quite rough through the air passages/Ports, which will obviously cause turbulence, which will reduce air velocity and increase resistance to movement; all of which impedes the free movement of my pistons. Because they have to overcome these resistances and this lost ponies and torque!
But I am no expert, I was never a drip under pressure, as my Dad used to define expert. Just some old guy with a few tools and decades of experience fixing cars.
I will walk through what I've done and briefly explain my reasoning for doing so. I know you can buy a flowed head from Turner engineering, and this would be a really good option. It takes their professionals about ten hours to flow a standard head for you, so a grand for the privilege is of great value. Also, after chatting with them on the phone, they're really helpful and really do know their 300tdi’s.
But I didn't mind working for 50 hours even swirl polishing the backs of my new valves, flowing the leading edge of the exhaust valves and lapping them in with fine 300 grit, then moving into 600 grit for more lapping. It was for fun and a longer term purpose, so just don't take me too seriously, I don't. But I think some folk may be interested to follow my process through and take something from it, like things that are likely not worth the effort or time.

I cleaned up the old head
1714817667159.png

and sold it on Ebay
1714817755118.png

I hope it does many more miles. But I wanted to start with new seats and guides etc.
I also cleaned and restored my sump pan, as figured it would tell a story and be full of gungy old oil.
1714817984115.png

It took a few hours, used two ball pein hammers to resett the bolt holes, cleaned treated rust and painted in 2 pak eurethanol paint for a long lasting tough finish
1714818129653.png

Followed by removing the pretty shine, because flat black radiates more heat than shiny black.
1714818284711.png
 
300 tdi I gas flowed my new cylinder head, after head gasket fail, 97 Defender pick-up Peggy
View attachment 316337
Head gasket on Cyl 3 leaked into water system and had white smoke :eek:
Here is a pic of the failed area
View attachment 316338
Done 140,000, and pic of engine
View attachment 316339
You may be able to see piston no 3 has been steam cleaned a bit.
I was in the middle of my woodland after a 12 mile drive there, which was a little spirited. However only had Peggy for a few months and rebuilt much of the rear Chassis, installed new standard Flat Dog springs, new bump stops mounts etc. So a recent running and using as a daily driver project.
View attachment 316341
She was driving beautifully before the gasket went, although I was noticing the need to top up the water very frequently and think the leak was ongoing for some time. My spirited drive just pushed things over!

Having a young woodland is great.
View attachment 316343
But it takes a lot of time and work. I have a 1974 S3 station wagon Gigi, and she’s been awesome helping me to repair deer fencing and lots of other stuff in the woods. But I got the 300 TDI pick-up to take the load off her because she was built 50 years ago and would like to take it more easy lol
View attachment 316344
There is quite a lot of work involved , not just sticking another head on, because we're always in such a rush.
I could have just stuck a new gasket in, and it would have been fine, quick and dirty. But a 300tdi doesn't care lol.
However, I’m retired and enjoy having some fun and learning stuff. I am lucky enough to be retired and have Gigi still plus a Subaru XV to which I recently fitted Cooper all terrain tires making quite a capable combination.

I’ve got air tools and bought a dremel tool and air die grinder, and did some indepth research about getting more from my new head.

The factory castings are quite rough through the air passages/Ports, which will obviously cause turbulence, which will reduce air velocity and increase resistance to movement; all of which impedes the free movement of my pistons. Because they have to overcome these resistances and this lost ponies and torque!
But I am no expert, I was never a drip under pressure, as my Dad used to define expert. Just some old guy with a few tools and decades of experience fixing cars.
I will walk through what I've done and briefly explain my reasoning for doing so. I know you can buy a flowed head from Turner engineering, and this would be a really good option. It takes their professionals about ten hours to flow a standard head for you, so a grand for the privilege is of great value. Also, after chatting with them on the phone, they're really helpful and really do know their 300tdi’s.
But I didn't mind working for 50 hours even swirl polishing the backs of my new valves, flowing the leading edge of the exhaust valves and lapping them in with fine 300 grit, then moving into 600 grit for more lapping. It was for fun and a longer term purpose, so just don't take me too seriously, I don't. But I think some folk may be interested to follow my process through and take something from it, like things that are likely not worth the effort or time.

I cleaned up the old head
View attachment 316346
and sold it on Ebay
View attachment 316347
I hope it does many more miles. But I wanted to start with new seats and guides etc.
I also cleaned and restored my sump pan, as figured it would tell a story and be full of gungy old oil.
View attachment 316348
It took a few hours, used two ball pein hammers to resett the bolt holes, cleaned treated rust and painted in 2 pak eurethanol paint for a long lasting tough finish
View attachment 316349
Followed by removing the pretty shine, because flat black radiates more heat than shiny black.
View attachment 316350
Nice work!
My sump pan started to ooze oil, so a stitch in time and all that!!
Well done!:):):)
 
The new head arrived and I set it to the side until needed. Not wanting to damage the machined mating surface.
This was a mistake as it turned out, because the couriers had been somewhat unkind to it. They had dropped the new head not once but twice causing some damage to each end.
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I realized if I fixed this and fitted it, there would be no come back warranty as it was damaged, even though I probably could have taken the damage back to flat.
So They very kindly sent me another one, which as it happens was a slightly better quality too, and I had two!
1714840599699.png

My caravan has provided a great space for bits and a clean area to sort things.
I took lots of photos so I could see how everything was. I have a great Official JLR Manual which has all the specs and info needed, and I made another box to keep many of the parts like pushrods which had been kept in order pushed into a piece of hard foam.
eg
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Being a pick-up with an i for williams canopy was ideal as there was a place to store some really oily dirty stuff until I was ready for it
Being a pick-up with an i for williams canopy was ideal as there was a place to store some really oily dirty stuff until I was ready for it.

Once the old head was removed I used kitchen roll, bunched up, and stuffed all the holes from push rods etc. I began cleaning the pistons carefully to remove some of the carbon build up which was actually not too bad, and cleaned the cast iron mating surface. It was important to keep everything clean, and being outside, all the more so. So the kitchen roll stuffed into everything was soaked with WD40, which I also used with bodyshop scuff pads to clean deposits and surfaces on the block.
It was sprayed over with WD40 and covered with cling film, cardboard cut to size and a handy flat piece of 5mm steel plate each time I stopped.
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Cleaning took some time
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Cleaning up dowel pins
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The WD40 is really useful for cleaning stuff.
Small things like the rubber seal on the oil cap were sourced and replaced, in a bid to minimize the oil leaks we all get with Landys.
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The air filter support bracket was dismantled, restored and rebuilt using new rubber mounts, all freely available.
1714842602342.png
 
After some work, I ended up with a little airbox mount kit to build. It felt like being a kid and getting an airfix kit to paint and build.
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A couple of the mount rubbers were separating from the bolts so really did need replacing. But a most satisfying job.
 
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I was quite pleased to see the original honing marks still in the cylinder walls.
They are a little more worn off at the back of cylinder three, and this seems to fit with others opinions that no 3 cylinder gets more boost than the others, because of the inlet manifold design, which has the pressurized air thrown to the back of the manifold from the front producing this effect.
For fun I tried firing compressed air in the end of my manifold with pieces of paper hanging over the four ports, and no three were lifted the most. A rather simplified experiment which does prove the theory in a practical demonstration. Think I may have a pic somewhere. But here is a pic miktdis showed of his Fourby performance inlet manifold
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Which is designed to give more even boost to each of the cylinders
Thanks https://www.landyzone.co.uk/members/miktdish.82087/ for sharing your pics 👍, I hope you don't mind me adding them here.
1714987104761.png

I have made do with my original, but may add my name to their waiting list, or if I can master my Tig, make my own.
My old manifold took quite a bit of cleaning, and I’ve found cheap spray oven cleaner and a power washer to make the job easier.
0.99p at Home Bargains for a spray tin of oven cleaner :¬)
1714987445197.png


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I got it pretty clean and spent some time polishing its internals to improve flow generally, although I didn't smooth out cylinder threes as much, things being unequal and all.
Here's my di grinders
1714987688115.jpeg

The air die grinder on the left is smaller than their dremel with a longer reach and can go twice as fast, which was useful with a grinding stone to re-shape the ports, and create a shark fin shape to the back of the valve guide on the exhaust ports.
But for actual polishing the Alu, not much rotational speed is needed at all do get a great finish.
1714987954240.png

I didn't want to make the exhaust ports, (Left above _ inlet right), much bigger. Because this would reduce the gas velocity and this is needed for turning the turbo. But to reshape the back of the valve guide support material so it was more fin shaped as opposed to a big lump of round, and tapered down into slight valleys either side is all intended to increase the velocity while reducing turbulence.
Again I’m no expert, and my modifications are not extreme, but quite subtle, and aimed at small efficiency improvements while avoiding the risk of ‘going too far’, and making the wall between water and air too thin. That's the last thing I would want, so I very much got comfy, and took my time.
Here is my set-up,
1714988504499.png

Here is an inlet bowl behind the Valve as from factory
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and exhaust bowl behind the valve, which has had some factory extra machining to improve flow
1714988774556.png

I suppose in use the exhaust ports will become smoother with deposited carbon and a little burnt oil.
 
On the exhaust manifold - in the global south anyway - some have coated the inside of the manifold with a "powder coating"

the stated objective of these peeps is that you want the temp delta between before the turbo to after the turbo to be as great as possible

don't understand it but they swear by it

but watching you with interest
 
300 tdi I gas flowed my new cylinder head, after head gasket fail, 97 Defender pick-up Peggy
View attachment 316337
Head gasket on Cyl 3 leaked into water system and had white smoke :eek:
Here is a pic of the failed area
View attachment 316338
Done 140,000, and pic of engine
View attachment 316339
You may be able to see piston no 3 has been steam cleaned a bit.
I was in the middle of my woodland after a 12 mile drive there, which was a little spirited. However only had Peggy for a few months and rebuilt much of the rear Chassis, installed new standard Flat Dog springs, new bump stops mounts etc. So a recent running and using as a daily driver project.
View attachment 316341
She was driving beautifully before the gasket went, although I was noticing the need to top up the water very frequently and think the leak was ongoing for some time. My spirited drive just pushed things over!

Having a young woodland is great.
View attachment 316343
But it takes a lot of time and work. I have a 1974 S3 station wagon Gigi, and she’s been awesome helping me to repair deer fencing and lots of other stuff in the woods. But I got the 300 TDI pick-up to take the load off her because she was built 50 years ago and would like to take it more easy lol
View attachment 316344
There is quite a lot of work involved , not just sticking another head on, because we're always in such a rush.
I could have just stuck a new gasket in, and it would have been fine, quick and dirty. But a 300tdi doesn't care lol.
However, I’m retired and enjoy having some fun and learning stuff. I am lucky enough to be retired and have Gigi still plus a Subaru XV to which I recently fitted Cooper all terrain tires making quite a capable combination.

I’ve got air tools and bought a dremel tool and air die grinder, and did some indepth research about getting more from my new head.

The factory castings are quite rough through the air passages/Ports, which will obviously cause turbulence, which will reduce air velocity and increase resistance to movement; all of which impedes the free movement of my pistons. Because they have to overcome these resistances and this lost ponies and torque!
But I am no expert, I was never a drip under pressure, as my Dad used to define expert. Just some old guy with a few tools and decades of experience fixing cars.
I will walk through what I've done and briefly explain my reasoning for doing so. I know you can buy a flowed head from Turner engineering, and this would be a really good option. It takes their professionals about ten hours to flow a standard head for you, so a grand for the privilege is of great value. Also, after chatting with them on the phone, they're really helpful and really do know their 300tdi’s.
But I didn't mind working for 50 hours even swirl polishing the backs of my new valves, flowing the leading edge of the exhaust valves and lapping them in with fine 300 grit, then moving into 600 grit for more lapping. It was for fun and a longer term purpose, so just don't take me too seriously, I don't. But I think some folk may be interested to follow my process through and take something from it, like things that are likely not worth the effort or time.

I cleaned up the old head
View attachment 316346
and sold it on Ebay
View attachment 316347
I hope it does many more miles. But I wanted to start with new seats and guides etc.
I also cleaned and restored my sump pan, as figured it would tell a story and be full of gungy old oil.
View attachment 316348
It took a few hours, used two ball pein hammers to resett the bolt holes, cleaned treated rust and painted in 2 pak eurethanol paint for a long lasting tough finish
View attachment 316349
Followed by removing the pretty shine, because flat black radiates more heat than shiny black.
View attachment 316350
I'm interested in the profile of your sharkfin, many decades back in a former life (and before computerisation) this apprentice toolmaker gas flowed the head of a BMC 1800 B engine for competitive use. It was all by eye and guesswork but worked.

I would expect my rudimentary knowledge of airflow in the mid 70s to be markedly different to the airflow knowledge today and I'd be interested in what the thoughts are now.

I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this as I've got two old motors to keep running 😊 (a 200TDi and 300TDi)
 
Enjoyable read. Was new head from turners? I’d really like a woodland. Have been thinking about it a couple years and have a young son who would benefit from it massively as would his mates! I’m fortunate to have a fair few shooting perms though which I put free time to when I can. I’d just really love to get a woodland functioning how it should.
An old keeper said to me if beaters aren’t complaining about trying to get through a woodland then the wood isn’t thick enough 😂. This is true as really woodland floor should be covered with all sorts of flora and fauna instead of ravaged by deer.
Keep us updated on both 👍🏻😎
 
PXL_20240308_132554550.PORTRAIT.jpg

All the internal parts of the ports are rough and casting joins don't quite match up so there's an bit of a jagged edge running the length of each port.
The valve guide supporting casting is shaped a little, but on newer vehicles these areas are better designed and harder too.prove on.
I knew if I made the exhaust ports volume increase significantly, this would probably slow the speed of the exiting hot gasses, which would produce less boost.
So it was important to not remove too much material. Also I didn't want to get to thin between the water jacket and ports. But having a spare repairable new head gave me the courage to go for it.I wanted to smooth the port so as to less impede the flow of gasses.
The exhaust is forced up and over and around the shoulder of cast alloy around the guide.
So with stones and a flappy sand paper attached to the tools, I smoothed the port from the bowl side first, and begun taking the round support away so the fast flowing exhaust gas would be sliced into two parts moving up over the guide supported casting.
I also created a slight valley for either side for the gas to flow into where the two initial alleys converged into one more subtle one. The idea being to increase the flow speed just a wee bitty.
I am rubbish at photographing shiny bits. The more reflections and shiny, the worse my pics make these parts look. So My apologies.

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It's actually much smoother than it looks. Hopefully you can get an idea.
 
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