Alibro's latest activity

I'm with GG. 🤣 Only suggestion I can make is if you have mill the bell housing maybe take a little less off than you think. That way if you are right you will need to do it again which is a pain but if you are wrong you might save yourself the...

Been trying to get my head around this, and I'm beginning to think that maybe I have a better chance of understanding the wiring in Ali's EV conversion :oops:

When I was lining mine up, because of the solid shaft between the motor and gearbox it pretty much centred itself even before I spun the motor. Would it be possible for you to make up an alignment tool to do similar? The gearbox end is simple as...

This reminds me of the fun I had mating the TD4 gearbox to the Nissan Leaf motor. In my case I was able to make the motor spin to centre the two but that will be another challenge for you.

That's one of the things I need to figure out. Photos from today:- With the engine just plonked onto the Jatco gearbox and the crank lined up with the gearbox input shaft, I can then see how far off the IRD to K series bracket is:- so...

The speedo work fine and you are right about it getting speed from the ABS sensors, it reads optimistic because I have the Nissan Leaf wheels and tyres on it. They just happened to fit and had good tyres so I figured I would use them for a while...

Will you need an adapter plate of some sort? And depending on the length of the input shaft will you need to machine the bell housing? It was relatively simple for me with the EV conversion as I just made a solid coupler with help from Nodge.

The 1.8 passed it's MOT this morning. I have a lead on a person who does machining work. Next job is to see if I can actually bolt a K series to the Jatco and IRD.

… used it to take Bree for a nice walk through the fields at ‘early o’clock’ today, when the dew is still about, but no bugger else! She loved it, and the FL didn’t breakdown there or back again, so a good morning.

fl1/td4 : .. 225/65/17's .. 1750 rpm .. in 5th gear .. 45 mph 1963 rpm .. in 5th gear .. 50 mph 2350 rpm .. in 5th gear .. 60 mph 2700 rpm .. in 5th gear .. 70 mph 2972 rpm .. in 5th gear .. 76 mph...

Thanks mate, much appreciated. As always with me perfection is not an option but we still try. 🤣

I've been relying on this for years Ali!

Our old F1 was SWMBO's and I rarely drove it so I hadn't driven a F1 for several years before buying the car I converted to EV. It didn't have a radio when I got it so I had nothing to compare but the Android head unit I have seems to be pretty...

Hi guys I'm trying to calibrate the rev counter in my EV converted Freelander 1 so would like to know what rpm you guys see at 50mph, 60mph, and 70mph in 5th gear. Even better would be if you can confirm the speed from Waze or Google maps as...

If you can find one with buttons it should be better than one without. If you must have one without buttons then steering wheel control is none optional.

You guys are not turning your radio up high enough.

Put it for sale.

Thanks mate, I'll do that. I put the 1500µF cap in earlier and it seems to be working a treat, completely preventing the drop out I could see earlier, goes to show how poor quality the modules are so I'll probably figure out a way to get rid of them.

It got kicked plenty but no it didn't help. 😡 Funny old thing but turning it off and on again did. I think the issue is being caused by a little timer module that is extremely susceptible to fluctuations in voltage which can be caused by the...

I'm still draining those pesky last two cells to try and get them to average. It is a pain but I'm getting there. Unfortunately that's more than can be said of the car as I went to use it today and it cut out again this time in the middle of a...

So good and bad news for the BMS. The good news is it's working. I can see every cell and have been able to manually drain a few that were too high. They were maybe 40 or 50mV higher than average so not disastrous but bad enough to potentially do...

Sounds like a broken wire in the loom where it bends for the door. I haven't seen it before but FL1 leccy windows love to fail. It's their favourite mode.

Yesterday I managed to break my rear right window regulator. "No probs" says I, "I have a spare in the test mule" So I whipped it out and popped it into the Freelander EV. Up it went, down it went, up it went, down it went, up it went, Bang it...

Regarding the bms breaking at cell 48, a suggestion has been made to move the neg contactor in the rear battery box (that is probably overkill anyway) to between cells 48 and 49. This should protect against accidental damage to the bms and would...

If I use a buffer, it removes the paint patina around the r/n/s door :p

If you can connect one wire you can connect two. If you can connect two wires you can connect five. If you can connect 5 wires....... you get the point. It looks daunting and complicated but when you break it down it's just connecting wires...

The last few days I've been struggling to get my head around the BMS again. Although it probably won't be able be able to keep the pack balanced it's a good idea to have it working as I can use a simple Bluetooth dongle and App called LeafSpy to...

Erm, you could always take the lift out so that the CVs run at the angles they are supposed to. On the back, I suppose you could lower the diff by 60mm.... and hope the UJs on the prop shaft don't give up or the diff gets collected by a rock...

The drive shaft joints are at a more extreme angle so need to work harder and are further out in the cups, the rubber boots have a harder time too. You didn't say if you checked the clearance for the track rod ends. With a 50mm lift kit this is...

The only Issue I had with my lift kit was it shortened the life of the front drive shafts. If yours give trouble do not by cheap aftermarket as they will fail almost immediately. Make sure your track rod ends clear the chassis legs with the car...