2001 TD4.
There have been a few threads about this of late, and since my FBH was non-functional I decided to get busy today.
It didnt work because a while back I removed the wee doser pump from the rear wheel arch as it was leaking. Since winters here are bastid-cold I decided to get busy today and at least get it working as standard for winter time. The pump was quite rusty and one of the metal barbs the hoses push onto had come off (they are a push fit in the pump body with an o-ring to seal). I shoved it back into place and cocooned it with chemical metal. Fixed.
I pulled out fuse 5 in the engine bay box to reset the FBH, but was pretty sure it would not work straight off as the pump only squirts a tiny amount of fuel at a time and the pipe from front to back would be empty. The pumps are not rotary pumps, they are wee solenoid things that jizz a wee bit of fuel with each action of the solenoid. I sliced away a wee bit of insulation on the feed to the pump (white/blue wire iirc - there are only 2, the feed and an earth) and I ran a bit of wire to the battery positive terminal. By touching this wire to the exposed pump feed, the pump would work. I kept tapping the wires together to get the pump squirting and after a few minutes got a faint smell of diesel from the FBH exhaust so the pipe was now primed. I refitted fuse 5 and just needed to get the thing running. You can short out the connections on the temp sensor and the FBH will start when you start the engine ( the temp sensor is behind the front bumper, looking at the front of the car its at the left hand side of the lower mesh grill.) The second way is to supply 12v to the FBH wiring, which will make it work independent of the cars engine running. I undid a few of the screws and pulled up the splash shield in the front wheel arch. The 2 wiring plugs are nearest the wheel. Pin 3 on the larger plug is the one you want - it has a gray and green wire in it. Again, I peeled iff a wee bit of insulation and touched my 12v wire from the battery to it and the thing started. The fan starts up, it whirrs and clunks a bit, smokes a little and then lights up, running with a muffled roaring noise from the wee exhaust. Mine took a couple of attempts to light as it had been unused for a year or so and I also may have flooded it when I primed the fuel pipe. Removing fuse 5 kills power to it and resets it, which I did after each failed ignition cycle.
So that was it repaired - next cold morning, it will start automatically when I start the car, heating the engine up much faster, and allowing the cabin heating to warm up faster too. But why stop there?
I hoiked out the centre console (easy job - follow your Haynes manual) and took a 12v feed from the stereo wiring, which I ran through a 5 amp inline fuse to the blank switch hole to the right of the ashtray on the centre console. I rummaged about until I found a standard sized rocker switch in amongst my junk, which slots into the hole in the console after a wee tickle with a file. Its a double pole single throw switch - ie it will switch on and off two seperate circuits. I connected the 12v feed to the top two terminals on the switch. I ran a single wire from this switch through the bulkhead and down to behind the left headlight, where the FBH wiring comes up into the engine bay. I peeled back the loom wrap and found the gray/green wire and connect my new wire to it so flicking the switch sends 12v through this wire and starts the FBH. The second side of the rocker switch I used to switch on the interior fan motor. If you look down behind the heater controls, you will see wiring going to a yellow relay, which hangs quite near the OBD socket on my car. This relay is to power the fan on speed setting number 4. It was a simple job to run a wire from the other pole of my switch to this relay and connect it to the trigger wire (its red and much thinner than the three other wires to the relay)
So, when I hit the rocker switch the FBH fires up and the heater blower runs at speed 4. Ideal to defrost windows and heat up the cabin while I finish my breakfast. Next step will be to fit a remote control so I dont even have to go outside to start it. Something like this looks ideal...
Single Channel Wireless Remote Control Kit : RF Modules : Maplin Electronics
There have been a few threads about this of late, and since my FBH was non-functional I decided to get busy today.
It didnt work because a while back I removed the wee doser pump from the rear wheel arch as it was leaking. Since winters here are bastid-cold I decided to get busy today and at least get it working as standard for winter time. The pump was quite rusty and one of the metal barbs the hoses push onto had come off (they are a push fit in the pump body with an o-ring to seal). I shoved it back into place and cocooned it with chemical metal. Fixed.
I pulled out fuse 5 in the engine bay box to reset the FBH, but was pretty sure it would not work straight off as the pump only squirts a tiny amount of fuel at a time and the pipe from front to back would be empty. The pumps are not rotary pumps, they are wee solenoid things that jizz a wee bit of fuel with each action of the solenoid. I sliced away a wee bit of insulation on the feed to the pump (white/blue wire iirc - there are only 2, the feed and an earth) and I ran a bit of wire to the battery positive terminal. By touching this wire to the exposed pump feed, the pump would work. I kept tapping the wires together to get the pump squirting and after a few minutes got a faint smell of diesel from the FBH exhaust so the pipe was now primed. I refitted fuse 5 and just needed to get the thing running. You can short out the connections on the temp sensor and the FBH will start when you start the engine ( the temp sensor is behind the front bumper, looking at the front of the car its at the left hand side of the lower mesh grill.) The second way is to supply 12v to the FBH wiring, which will make it work independent of the cars engine running. I undid a few of the screws and pulled up the splash shield in the front wheel arch. The 2 wiring plugs are nearest the wheel. Pin 3 on the larger plug is the one you want - it has a gray and green wire in it. Again, I peeled iff a wee bit of insulation and touched my 12v wire from the battery to it and the thing started. The fan starts up, it whirrs and clunks a bit, smokes a little and then lights up, running with a muffled roaring noise from the wee exhaust. Mine took a couple of attempts to light as it had been unused for a year or so and I also may have flooded it when I primed the fuel pipe. Removing fuse 5 kills power to it and resets it, which I did after each failed ignition cycle.
So that was it repaired - next cold morning, it will start automatically when I start the car, heating the engine up much faster, and allowing the cabin heating to warm up faster too. But why stop there?
I hoiked out the centre console (easy job - follow your Haynes manual) and took a 12v feed from the stereo wiring, which I ran through a 5 amp inline fuse to the blank switch hole to the right of the ashtray on the centre console. I rummaged about until I found a standard sized rocker switch in amongst my junk, which slots into the hole in the console after a wee tickle with a file. Its a double pole single throw switch - ie it will switch on and off two seperate circuits. I connected the 12v feed to the top two terminals on the switch. I ran a single wire from this switch through the bulkhead and down to behind the left headlight, where the FBH wiring comes up into the engine bay. I peeled back the loom wrap and found the gray/green wire and connect my new wire to it so flicking the switch sends 12v through this wire and starts the FBH. The second side of the rocker switch I used to switch on the interior fan motor. If you look down behind the heater controls, you will see wiring going to a yellow relay, which hangs quite near the OBD socket on my car. This relay is to power the fan on speed setting number 4. It was a simple job to run a wire from the other pole of my switch to this relay and connect it to the trigger wire (its red and much thinner than the three other wires to the relay)
So, when I hit the rocker switch the FBH fires up and the heater blower runs at speed 4. Ideal to defrost windows and heat up the cabin while I finish my breakfast. Next step will be to fit a remote control so I dont even have to go outside to start it. Something like this looks ideal...
Single Channel Wireless Remote Control Kit : RF Modules : Maplin Electronics
