How to - replace a 200 TDi Defender front Shock Absorber.

Yes, I know technically they should be called Dampers, but most people know them as Shock Absorbers.
Replacing the rear ones is a piece of cake and doesn't warrant a write-up.
The front ones are a little trickier, but still well within the scope of the average person with some basic tools.

This thread shows the nearside one being done. The only difference with the offside one is that you need to move the radiator header tank out of the way, instead of the air box and it's support bracket.

First, jack the Landy up using a trolley jack or bottle jack under the front axle. Remove the wheel and place an axle stand under the chassis rail. Then lower the Landy so that it rests on the axle stand, but there's still some weight on the trolley / bottle jack.



That leaves the coil spring still slightly compressed, but enough space between the coils to get a pair of stillsons in.



Move the air-box out of the way and remove it's support bracket. Then remove the plastic cover and expose the top of the turret.



Hold the bottom of the shock absorber with a pair if stillsons and undo the bottom securing nut.



Retrieve the nut, rubber donut and washers.



Undo the 4 nuts securing the turret to the chassis bracket. One or more of the turret-ring studs will shear off, so buy new turret-rings before you start (about 4 quid each).



Pull the turret and shocker out through the hole in the inner wing.



Now you need to remove the turret-ring with the broken stud(s). Lower the trolley / bottle jack as far as you can, without straining the brake hose.



You can then prise the spring out from it's seat and remove the turret-ring.



Replace it with a new turret-ring and hold it in place temporarily with a couple of the nuts.



Put the spring back in place under the turret ring.



A pry-bay comes in handy to ease the spring into place.



Once the spring is back in place, jack the axle back up again (not too far) and remove the temporary nuts from the turret-ring.



Next, get the turret in a vice and remove the top nut, using the stillsons on the upper part of the shock-absorber and a spanner on the nut. Remove the shock absorber and retrieve the washers and rubber donuts.



Fit the new shocker in through the turret, with the new washers and donuts in the correct order (i.e. as supplied).



Now, you need to stop the shock absorber turning, whilst you tighten up the top nut. You can use the stillsons, but you need to be careful to avoid damaging the new shock absorber. I used an oil-filter strap-wrench to hold the shock absorber....



....while I tightened up the nut with a torque wrench.



Next, drop the turret / shock back through the hole in the inner wing, onto the new turret-ring studs...



....and fit the washers / nuts and tighten down the turret.



Fit the upper / bottom washers and donut, before pulling the lower part of the shock down through the spring seat. Then fit the lower / bottom washers and donut and the securing nut. Tighten the bottom securing nut whilst holding the shock absorber body with the stillsons (take care not to damage it). You can't get a socket on it, to use a torque wrench, so tighten it up till the donuts are well compressed (compare their thickness with the top ones).



That's about it!



Replace the wheel, the air-box and bracket - JOB DONE!

a farm jack is also very handy to elp raise the body when it's time to remove yer springs

also elps to spray/paint the inside of they turrets with something to inhibit rust as they normal rust from the insides outwards

i managed to replace my front shocks last week without breaking either turret rings.

im not saying that to be a smart arse, but if anyone wants a pair of turret rings then they can have em for nothing

you might need to raise the body, if you've got extended springs, but I didn't with standard ones.

bugger wish i read this first as i have removed all the body work front an rear just left bulkhead in place engine and box out too never mind good chance to paint chasis bits and put v8 in

very informative trewy, nowonder it took you so long... stopping to take all them photos!

G

Another one fur the General Q's and A's

Goodun Trewy.

I was inspired by Buster!

His drop-arm ball-joint fred was useful for me, so I thought I'd return the favour for others, in the true spirit of LandyZone.

ooooooooooooooooooo... when i get me new 300 i can have me very own mods and upgrade section but i leave the DIY snorkel to gippo

Nice one Trewy

chris_mack said:

i managed to replace my front shocks last week without breaking either turret rings.

im not saying that to be a smart arse, but if anyone wants a pair of turret rings then they can have em for nothing

Click to expand...

I need some turret rings... Ill take them if you don't mind!

yet another excellent step by step.....sure gonna save people money on garage bills in the future......good job matey......you and buster should start a manual......

110greeny said:

yet another excellent step by step.....sure gonna save people money on garage bills in the future......good job matey......you and buster should start a manual......

Click to expand...

Aye, ill b following this guide shortly! Wish i had made one about changing brake lines, i know its a fairly simple job but there were some bits I had to work out which would have saved a lot of time. Hmm, ah well.

Sean said:

INDEX.* Read this Post before looking at any threads* - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

Click to expand...

Wouldn't trust him. I only read the adjusting the wheel bearing fred, and this is how he sez to do it

"Using the same socket - tighten the nut and spin the wheel. Once the wheel feels as though it's binding - slacken 1/4 turn or until the wheel spins freely with no play in the bearing."

Which is a load of bollocks, there should be play on the wheel bearings 2 to 4 thou if I remember right. Doing it his way could end up with siezed, nackered or wotever wheel bearings.

Cor!
That is really good especially with pics and gives me confidence to have a go on mine when the time comes.
Thanks for good info.

GRUNT said:

Wouldn't trust him. I only read the adjusting the wheel bearing fred, and this is how he sez to do it

"Using the same socket - tighten the nut and spin the wheel. Once the wheel feels as though it's binding - slacken 1/4 turn or until the wheel spins freely with no play in the bearing."

Which is a load of bollocks, there should be play on the wheel bearings 2 to 4 thou if I remember right. Doing it his way could end up with siezed, nackered or wotever wheel bearings.

Click to expand...

which thread is that quote from ?

If i may add a wee bit to this alread good guide -

I did mine today, thanks Chris the rings arrived my Uni post office thing was just being useless.

However... The rings had different threads on the studs to each other and what was on it, so make sure you have some nuts to fit them.

Disco 1 turrents fit on my 90 - cos the offside one had a big hole rusted through it. It now has a disco one fitted

The shocks have a wee flat bit on the ends, which is 8mm across, so's you can put an 8mm spanner on them to hold them still to tighten up the nuts - you wouldn't manage this with rusty old ones, but to tighten up the new ones I used it, as it means you don't have to risk crushing the shock wirh stilsons, etc.

Otherwise, thanks again trewy!

Yip,

Just done mine too full set of +2" Terrafirma medium weight springs and larger diameter shocks with D44 turrets/rings and rear Dislocation cones looks the doggy's... check it out.

G

Good show!