200tdi / 300tdi Lumpy Idle & Smoke Fixed!

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pos

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,685
Location
West Yorkshire
Hello,

Anyone who has been following my threads with regards to the lumpy idle problem on my 200tdi, or who has been experiencing similar problems themselves, may benefit from trying out a few things that I have found to be successful in ultimately curing my erratic idle and blue / white smoking problem. This should also help cure similar symptoms on a 300tdi engine. A lot of credit goes to CharlesY, who has been helping me out behind the scenes, with ideas and suggestions as well as the fundamental workings of the Bosch VE injection pump :)

The problem in my case, can be narrowed down to three things:

1) An improperly installed fuel line that was allowing a small amount of air to be drawn into the system

2) A restriction in the fuel return line between the injection pump and the fuel tank

3) My fuel injection timing

Let's start with the fuel line allowing air to be drawn in. I had replaced various parts of my fuel line with 8mm rubber hose, sleeved over 8mm metal unions to try and irradiate the air problem a few months back, but to no effect. There has evidently been a leak somewhere between the fuel pickup pipe and the fuel lift pump (only two unions), the only part of the fuel line which is under vacuum. Air can be drawn in here, but fuel does not necessarily have to leak out. I decided to completely strip out the entire fuel line system in my 90, and replaced it with 8mm nylon fuel line (3 metres gave me plenty to play with), joined with compression fittings that tightened down onto the nylon fuel line, reenforced with brass tube supports. No where have I used a jubilee clip, or any other form of fuel clip. The system is solely nylon pipe, compression fittings and hollow fuel line bolts with olives. I now have an air-leak-free fuel line, and the flow of diesel to the injection pump is completely uninterrupted.

Secondly, I had to cut through the existing nylon injection pump return line, in order to fit the 200tdi engine in place of my old 2.5N/A (12J). I then made the old nylon return line, fit the return setup on the 200tdi injection pump by sleeving 8mm rubber hose over the nylon pipes, securing them in place with jubilee clips. The problem here, being that the jubilee clips had to be fairly tight to avoid a diesel leak and tightening the jubilee clips to the extent that prevented a leak, meant that the nylon pipes were crushed, significantly restricting the diesel from free-flowing back to the tank. This Inevitably created pressure buildup in the fuel return line, which effects the governing of the injection pump. The Bosch VE utilises a calibrated return (banjo bolt with a small hole) to maintain internal pump pressures. The cold start advance / idle advance / retard mechanism internal to the pump, is in a state of balance, and is controlled by internal fuel pressure. Restricting the return line had thrown the mechanism out of kilter, and the engine would not idle correctly.

Finally, with regards to the White / blue smoke problems that I had been having from a cold start (notably worse in the colder weather), I believe this is down to a combination of the restricted fuel return line and the ever so slightly advanced injection timing that I set up for better high end power. The injection pump would naturally try to advance the injection timing from a cold start, but the restriction in the return line was effecting the internal fuel pressure balance, throwing the timing too advance, or too retarded (I'm not sure which way it would hamper). This, coupled with slightly increased fuelling by a means of adjusting the boost diaphragm eccentric cone so that the pump injects more fuel at 0 boost, meant that there was more fuel being injected on the cold start. More fuel, more smoke, Incorrect idle / cold start timing; quite simple really.

All in all, starting from scratch with the fuel lines, and doing them properly with compression fittings and no cause for sleeving joints, has solved the problem and I now have a steady idle. I used SSL Diesel Parts (SSL Diesel Parts - Low Cost diesel fuel Parts.) for everything that I bought, including a new fuel filter head. It cost me £30 including VAT & delivery, so a bargain really considering Land Rover charge a similar price for one nylon pipe alone :eek:

I'm glad I finally found a fix, and thanks to everyone who helped along the way. I know there had been a lot of people wanting answers to this problem - so there you have it, at least in my case anyway.

-Tom
 
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Certainly...

All parts purchased online from SSL Diesel Parts (SSL Diesel Parts - Low Cost diesel fuel Parts.). They're based in North Uist, off the North West of Scotland and deliver next day! Customer service is exceptional.

1 x Fuel Filter Head (non-standard but takes standard spin on filter):
Bolts to bulkhead, 1 pipe in from lift pump, 1 pipe out to injection pump
Single filter head screw on filter type from SSL diesel

3 x 1M Length(s) 8mm Nylon Fuel Pipe (Comes as a 3M length):
Fuel tank > lift pump, lift pump > filter head, filter head > injection pump. Use brass tube supports to prevent crushing at compression joints
plastic nylon tubing from SSL diesel Parts plastic tubing

1 x 1M Spill Rail / Leak-Off Hose:
Three pieces between injector spill rail banjos - plenty left spare for next time
Fuel Leak of pipe/spill pipe from SSL diesel Parts Fuel leak

3 x 8mm Straight Brass Compression Fittings:
Fuel pickup pipe > nylon supply pipe, fuel filter head > injection pump pipe (see photo), injection pump > tank return pipe
Brass Straight Compression Fittings BSC from SSL diesel

1 x 10 Pack 8mm Brass Tube Supports:
Insert into end of all nylon pipe lengths to re-enforce
Brass Tube Supports pk10 BTS from SSL diesel Parts Unit of

2 x 2 Kit 1/2" UNF Filter Head Tube Nut Kit:
Used at In / Out on lift pump, In / Out on fuel filter head
Filter Head Tube Nut Kit from SSL diesel Parts filter head

1 x 10 Pack Copper Washers:
Use between any existing banjo joints
Copper washers pk10 CW from SSL diesel Parts Unit of sale

1 x 10 Pack 8mm Olives (just in case):
Just in case you bugger up any of the existing olives
Brass Olive Barrel Type pk10 BOB from SSL diesel Parts Brass

1 x 8mm Plastic Push-Fit Hose Joiner:
I used this to join the return line from pump, to existing return line back to tank
Plastic Push-In Straight from SSL diesel Parts Plastic



And a few photos just to show you how everything comes together (excuse my tatty wiring, it needs a new engine loom making up):

8mm Nylon fuel pipe & 8mm pickup pipe joined with an 8mm compression fitting (I coated the whole thing in Waxoil afterwards). The nylon return line does not need replacing, so this stayed put:

tank.jpg


8mm Nylon fuel pipe joins the lift pump unions (1/2" UNF) using a filter head tube nut kit:

lpump.jpg


Supply pipe from lift pump enters the fuel filter head, and a pipe with nice clean, filtered diesel leaves the filter head towards the injection pump, again using a filter head tube nut kit. I used both ports on the right to keep the engine bay tidy:

filter.jpg


I doctored the genuine 200tdi filter head to injection pump pipe to take a compression fitting. Essentially, I cut away the plastic pipe that was there as standard, and spliced in a nice new section of 8mm nylon pipe. As standard, this pipe connects to the top of the fuel filter head by a way of a banjo. The new fuel filter head has a different port layout, which is why this pipe had to be adapted:

ijpump.jpg


-Tom
 
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UPDATE

The lumpy idle / misfire reared its ugly head again for the first time since the new fuel lines went it this morning :mad: The one and only thing that I hadn't checked were the push rods, so just to make sure that they were all in good order, I checked them out. Guess what... No.6 pushrod (on cylinder 3) has a nice curve in it :doh: Even though the valve clearances were adjusted correctly, I expect that the bent push rod has been a bit hit and miss where it strikes the rocker arm ball. That'll be a new one tomorrow, at least they're cheap! I will report back.

-Tom
 
UPDATE 2

**** it! New push rod, valve clearances re-set and the 'stard is still missing and occasionally roumaging around for an idle. Dunno what to try next.
 
Get a TD5 :D:D:D
Mine idles rock solid at 740 rpm + or - 2 rpm.

Sorry mate couldn't resist !

Haha for the time being it does! :D Mine did up until ...? And that's why I am trying to get to the bottom of. It's a mystery. Power is superb and it sometimes idles exceptionally. It only really seems to do it when there is something drawing current. I have however, noticed it doing it with the alternator belt off, so it can't be the load created by the alternator that is causing it. It COULD be something to do with the electronics (mainly the stop solenoid wiring) and there are earth problems in my wiring, but then again blipping the throttle sometimes brings it back up and sorts it out. I'm going to try the injectors that James Martin sent me next week, other than that, it's something to do with the governor in my new IP.

-Tom
 
What about the vacuum pump? Just a thought.

I've heard mention of the vacuum pump causing problems in the past. Can you shed any light on this? What are the symptoms of a faulty / leaking vacuum pump and what do you do to remedy it etc? Would it cause a bizarre idle?

Thanks,
-Tom
 
wouldnt make it miss on 200 tdi can pressurise crank case as the outlet comes out of bottom into cam gallery

Thanks for that sir :). I'm going to try your injectors out after all my uni work is finished next week. It's bloody annoying. I noticed for the first time today that when pulling away hard, the plume of black smoke is not continuous from the exhaust, but more in pulses as so to speak, or little puffs, almost as if one cylinder isn't firing properly. I am thinking injectors - just need to get some washers.

-Tom
 
Hi Pos, did you get to the bottom of the smoke/idle issues?

Nope, the bugger is still doing it. It's not smoking at all now besides a gray splutter when the idle drops and the engine starts coughing. The idle is still dropping off and bobbling around hot and cold. Sometimes it is spot on, sometimes it idles like ****e, so I'm still baffled. It appears to happen more when my 90 is facing up hill. I have actually noticed the idle correct its self when I've come off an incline, on to a flat, or facing down hill. I'm going to try a few more things out tomorrow:

- Double check there is zero air getting into the system
- Remove the timing belt, check tensioner and idler spin freely and that there is no play / wear in pulley / sprocket keyways etc.

If that doesn't cure it then I don't know what will

-Tom
 
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I have been having the same problems as you, but as well as the irratic idle mine also smokes like a 1970's Tap room! to the point that i'm so contious of it that I try to drive it a lot steadier on the throttle. I'm going to take the Inj pump off and get it checked over at my local diesel specialist and at the same time I'll replace the fuel pipes. I am also aware that my valve stem seals on no.4 are a bit tired so I'll get them all done. Good luck with it all mate.
 
I have been having the same problems as you, but as well as the irratic idle mine also smokes like a 1970's Tap room! to the point that i'm so contious of it that I try to drive it a lot steadier on the throttle. I'm going to take the Inj pump off and get it checked over at my local diesel specialist and at the same time I'll replace the fuel pipes. I am also aware that my valve stem seals on no.4 are a bit tired so I'll get them all done. Good luck with it all mate.

Cheers Dazzx.

Keep me informed with how you get on with the pump check and the likes, and if you do ultimately find the problem, I'd love to know what it is. There was a group of us with similar problems a few months back but fixes, finds etc. all seem to be very scarce. Perhaps no one actually managed to get the problem sorted. The white / blue smoke problem in my case was a combination of the injection timing being a little retarded and the valve guide oil seals not being seated, so I swapped them. Advancing the timing just a couple of degrees sorted all that out, but I still get an irratic tickover which either bobbles around or hunts :mad: It doesn't always do it though.

Damn thing
-Tom
 
Update: Significant Progress Made

I have made significant progress with regards to the lumpy / dropping / hunting idle problem on my 200tdi. Convinced that the problem was still related to air in my fuel, I completely stripped down my new fuel lines, including injector pipes and started from scratch again at the tank end, tightening everything up as I went along. After starting the engine and revving it for a minute or so to purge any air from the system, I noticed that the idle was almost as smooth as it used to be. It would tick over perfectly for about 20 seconds and then stumble a little and then continue to tick over perfectly again. I found that I had not tightened up the straight compression fitting at my injection pump to the extent that I had all the other fittings in my fuel system. Although the fuel line is pressurised here from the lift pump, it would appear that air has been drawn in (no idea how) and there were certainly no visible diesel leaks. Anyhow, it now ticks over perfectly BUT it does hesitate a little from a first start if it has been sat for an hour or so. I have a feeling that this might be something to do with my spill rail / return setup, so I am going to dig into it a little further, but so far, all is well :D

Here is the apparent culprit. However air could be drawn in here at idle, I do not know. I suppose, it could have been a leak that I corrected further back in the fuel line, but things noticeably looked up after giving this fella a nip up:

ijpump.jpg


-Tom
 
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As I commented before...your posts are like a good book! Great you have found the fault, but looking forward to your next fault finding thread....as you are quite near to me, I know where to call if my 200 develops a lumpy engine
Cheers Sax
 
As I commented before...your posts are like a good book! Great you have found the fault, but looking forward to your next fault finding thread....as you are quite near to me, I know where to call if my 200 develops a lumpy engine
Cheers Sax

It's made a whole world of difference :D I'm happy to come over if you ever have a problem or you just need some help with something land rover related. You're just on the other side of the crag ;) next thing to sort are my bulkhead corners, they're rotten as feck.

-Tom
 
the injection pump has transfer pump which will if system perfect suck fuel from tank ,not from dry ,you would have been better running flex hose and hose clips less to go wrong olives on plastic pipe can be hard to get long lasting seal however professional it looks
 
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