series voltage regulator wiring

the series/101 voltage reg that is attached to the back of my speedo
has 2 terminals on. a male and a female spade.
One will be the unregulated in and the other 12v out, but does anybody
have any idea which is which?

It is too dark outside to go test it now and im just trying to rewire
the 101 dash in the confort of the house!

On Wed, 18 Oct 2006 21:56:58 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> wrote:

>the series/101 voltage reg that is attached to the back of my speedo
>has 2 terminals on. a male and a female spade.
>One will be the unregulated in and the other 12v out, but does anybody
>have any idea which is which?
>
>It is too dark outside to go test it now and im just trying to rewire
>the 101 dash in the confort of the house!

The one that has a male spade on the reg is the 12v ign, thus it takes
a normal female spade on the wire. The one that has a female spade on
the reg (and thus an unusual male spade on the wire) is the 12v
regulated.

Alex

On Wed, 18 Oct 2006 10:25:48 +0100, Alex <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Wed, 18 Oct 2006 21:56:58 +0100, Tom Woods
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>the series/101 voltage reg that is attached to the back of my speedo
>>has 2 terminals on. a male and a female spade.
>>One will be the unregulated in and the other 12v out, but does anybody
>>have any idea which is which?
>>
>>It is too dark outside to go test it now and im just trying to rewire
>>the 101 dash in the confort of the house!
>
>The one that has a male spade on the reg is the 12v ign, thus it takes
>a normal female spade on the wire. The one that has a female spade on
>the reg (and thus an unusual male spade on the wire) is the 12v
>regulated.

Thanks alex - i knew you would be able to tell me!

do you know if it is worth running extra gauges through a voltage reg
too or are they more civilised and likely to have them built in? I
have a TIM temp gauge and plan to get oil pressure and temperature
ones once ive found somewhere resonably priced!

Dash now done apart from the ign feeds as im still working out a tidy
way to string them all together.

Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> On Wed, 18 Oct 2006 10:25:48 +0100, Alex <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 18 Oct 2006 21:56:58 +0100, Tom Woods
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> the series/101 voltage reg that is attached to the back of my speedo
>>> has 2 terminals on. a male and a female spade.
>>> One will be the unregulated in and the other 12v out, but does
>>> anybody have any idea which is which?
>>>
>>> It is too dark outside to go test it now and im just trying to
>>> rewire the 101 dash in the confort of the house!
>>
>> The one that has a male spade on the reg is the 12v ign, thus it
>> takes a normal female spade on the wire. The one that has a female
>> spade on the reg (and thus an unusual male spade on the wire) is the
>> 12v regulated.
>
> Thanks alex - i knew you would be able to tell me!
>
> do you know if it is worth running extra gauges through a voltage reg
> too or are they more civilised and likely to have them built in? I
> have a TIM temp gauge and plan to get oil pressure and temperature
> ones once ive found somewhere resonably priced!
>
> Dash now done apart from the ign feeds as im still working out a tidy
> way to string them all together.

They either need one or they don't , any half decent modern one won't.

The reg sort of fluctuates between around 10.5 or so and 14 volts thus
evening out over a period at around 12 v... well at least the less time than
the needle is likely to move in anyway.

Anything solid state would be well fuddled by a voltage regulator being
attached.

Lee D

Lee_D wrote:
>
> They either need one or they don't , any half decent modern one won't.
>
> The reg sort of fluctuates between around 10.5 or so and 14 volts thus
> evening out over a period at around 12 v... well at least the less time than
> the needle is likely to move in anyway.
>
> Anything solid state would be well fuddled by a voltage regulator being
> attached.

When those horrid Lucas regulators fail I replace them with a solid
state regulator - 100% reliable thereafter.


--
EMB

EMB wrote:

> Lee_D wrote:
>>
>> They either need one or they don't , any half decent modern one won't.
>>
>> The reg sort of fluctuates between around 10.5 or so and 14 volts thus
>> evening out over a period at around 12 v... well at least the less time
>> than the needle is likely to move in anyway.
>>
>> Anything solid state would be well fuddled by a voltage regulator being
>> attached.
>
> When those horrid Lucas regulators fail I replace them with a solid
> state regulator - 100% reliable thereafter.
>
>
Quite - but the one in my 2a is the original, and is doing quite well at 36
years, so it is a bit hard to see how a solid state one would improve
significantly on this. I suspect that a lot of the problems with these
regulators are in fact poor earths - which, living in a dry climate, have
not manifested, at least as far as the voltage regulator goes (headlights
are a different matter).
JD

JD wrote:
> EMB wrote:

>> When those horrid Lucas regulators fail I replace them with a solid
>> state regulator - 100% reliable thereafter.
>>
>>
> Quite - but the one in my 2a is the original, and is doing quite well at 36
> years, so it is a bit hard to see how a solid state one would improve
> significantly on this.

Same with my Dad's 1961 IIa - original regulator still going strong.
But I've replaced a few on clients' vehicles (mostly ones that see a lot
of water).


--
EMB

EMB wrote:

> JD wrote:
>> EMB wrote:
>
>>> When those horrid Lucas regulators fail I replace them with a solid
>>> state regulator - 100% reliable thereafter.
>>>
>>>
>> Quite - but the one in my 2a is the original, and is doing quite well at
>> 36 years, so it is a bit hard to see how a solid state one would improve
>> significantly on this.
>
> Same with my Dad's 1961 IIa - original regulator still going strong.
> But I've replaced a few on clients' vehicles (mostly ones that see a lot
> of water).
>
>
1961? I didn't think they were fitted until about 1967.
JD

JD wrote:
> EMB wrote:
>
>> JD wrote:
>>> EMB wrote:
>>>> When those horrid Lucas regulators fail I replace them with a solid
>>>> state regulator - 100% reliable thereafter.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Quite - but the one in my 2a is the original, and is doing quite well at
>>> 36 years, so it is a bit hard to see how a solid state one would improve
>>> significantly on this.
>> Same with my Dad's 1961 IIa - original regulator still going strong.
>> But I've replaced a few on clients' vehicles (mostly ones that see a lot
>> of water).
>>
>>
> 1961? I didn't think they were fitted until about 1967.

There's one in there - I was just assuming it was original as it's been
there ever since the first time I got into the dashboard.

--
EMB

EMB wrote:

> JD wrote:
>> EMB wrote:
>>
>>> JD wrote:
>>>> EMB wrote:
>>>>> When those horrid Lucas regulators fail I replace them with a solid
>>>>> state regulator - 100% reliable thereafter.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Quite - but the one in my 2a is the original, and is doing quite well
>>>> at 36 years, so it is a bit hard to see how a solid state one would
>>>> improve significantly on this.
>>> Same with my Dad's 1961 IIa - original regulator still going strong.
>>> But I've replaced a few on clients' vehicles (mostly ones that see a lot
>>> of water).
>>>
>>>
>> 1961? I didn't think they were fitted until about 1967.
>
> There's one in there - I was just assuming it was original as it's been
> there ever since the first time I got into the dashboard.
>
They came with the temperature gauge and the changed fuel gauge, I think at
the same time as negative earth, around 1967. But of course the later
instrument cluster (or even just the fuel gauge and sender) could have been
fitted and this would require the regulator.
JD

"JD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> EMB wrote:
>
> > JD wrote:
> >> EMB wrote:
> >>
> >>> JD wrote:
> >>>> EMB wrote:
> >>>>> When those horrid Lucas regulators fail I replace them with a solid
> >>>>> state regulator - 100% reliable thereafter.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>> Quite - but the one in my 2a is the original, and is doing quite well
> >>>> at 36 years, so it is a bit hard to see how a solid state one would
> >>>> improve significantly on this.
> >>> Same with my Dad's 1961 IIa - original regulator still going strong.
> >>> But I've replaced a few on clients' vehicles (mostly ones that see a
lot
> >>> of water).
> >>>
> >>>
> >> 1961? I didn't think they were fitted until about 1967.
> >
> > There's one in there - I was just assuming it was original as it's been
> > there ever since the first time I got into the dashboard.
> >
> They came with the temperature gauge and the changed fuel gauge, I think
at
> the same time as negative earth, around 1967. But of course the later
> instrument cluster (or even just the fuel gauge and sender) could have
been
> fitted and this would require the regulator.
> JD
The clocks must have been changed then because the old clocks didn't even
have a temp. gauge fitted in '61, main beam light, fuel gauge and ammeter up
until '67 as you say unless the later ones were fitted for export, but I
doubt it. BTW does the regulator have an earth connection in the case?, I've
never had one apart to look, they are usually so reliable that if I've had a
faulty one I've replaced it with a second hand one, never had to buy a new
one. I've never seen a solid state one either.

Martin

JD wrote:

> They came with the temperature gauge and the changed fuel gauge, I think at
> the same time as negative earth, around 1967. But of course the later
> instrument cluster (or even just the fuel gauge and sender) could have been
> fitted and this would require the regulator.

I've just spoken to the old man and he thinks the regulator was fitted
when he added a temperature gauge in the late 1960's.


--
EMB

Oily wrote:

> I've never seen a solid state one either.

I started making them with a 7809 IC for Nissans that used a 9V
regulator that Nissan couldn't supply at a price less than a week's wages.

Now I make them up out of a LM317 or LM350 IC and a variable resistor so
they can be adjusted to any voltage that may be required (good for
setting 'normal' on the temp gauge). They even work on stupid Toyotas
that have the voltage reg built into the fuel gauge assembly so it's a
major cost if it fails (as they do quite often).


--
EMB

Oily wrote:

>
> "JD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> EMB wrote:
>>
>> > JD wrote:
>> >> EMB wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> JD wrote:
>> >>>> EMB wrote:
>> >>>>> When those horrid Lucas regulators fail I replace them with a solid
>> >>>>> state regulator - 100% reliable thereafter.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>> Quite - but the one in my 2a is the original, and is doing quite
>> >>>> well at 36 years, so it is a bit hard to see how a solid state one
>> >>>> would improve significantly on this.
>> >>> Same with my Dad's 1961 IIa - original regulator still going strong.
>> >>> But I've replaced a few on clients' vehicles (mostly ones that see a
> lot
>> >>> of water).
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >> 1961? I didn't think they were fitted until about 1967.
>> >
>> > There's one in there - I was just assuming it was original as it's been
>> > there ever since the first time I got into the dashboard.
>> >
>> They came with the temperature gauge and the changed fuel gauge, I think
> at
>> the same time as negative earth, around 1967. But of course the later
>> instrument cluster (or even just the fuel gauge and sender) could have
> been
>> fitted and this would require the regulator.
>> JD
> The clocks must have been changed then because the old clocks didn't even
> have a temp. gauge fitted in '61, main beam light, fuel gauge and ammeter
> up until '67 as you say unless the later ones were fitted for export, but
> I doubt it. BTW does the regulator have an earth connection in the case?,
> I've never had one apart to look, they are usually so reliable that if
> I've had a faulty one I've replaced it with a second hand one, never had
> to buy a new one. I've never seen a solid state one either.
>
> Martin

The case IS the earth connection. I suspect most cases of faulty regulators,
"confirmed" by replacing them, are simply a case of poor connections,
usually the earth, that a lot of people think is just the mounting bolt.
Normally they are on the speedo on the S3 and the firewall on the S2a.
JD