Injector pump de-tweaking

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blue beasty

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Posts
63,117
Location
Gloucestercotshirewolds
Just fitted a 200tdi without the turbo and runs great but smokes massively under load. The pump has been tweaked before I put the engine in so I'm wondering to reduce smoke is it just a matter of turning the smoke screw as if I was adjusting the pump with the turbo fitted or do I need to follow the whole tweak guide backwards to get the original settings.....

Sort of fing :confused:
 
backed off in half turn increments as far as 2 1/2 turns.......a little better but not loads.

Might just take it out and give it a good blast to clear it through and then look again
 
Right folks....I would really appreciate some advice.

I've tried setting the smoke screw from 1 turn in to 3 turns out from it's position as it was and everywhere inbetween. The best position I have found is 1 1/2 turns out, every where else just seems to make it worse but tbh it's difficult to tell because the amount of smoke is huge.

It's fine at high revs and pottering, runs sweet and feels much torqueier (?) but pulling hard up hill it's pouring out and I desperately need to drag some heavy loads.

Do I need to do the complete injector tweek backwards even though the turbo is not fitted or do I need to be looking elsewhere.

Any thoughts welcome
 
Sorry mate, i cant help you. :(

Im suprised the engine gurus arnt all over this though!

have you posted in the enjuns section? Might be worth a shot?
 
BIG_GINGA_BEARD said:
Sorry mate, i cant help you. :(

Im suprised the engine gurus arnt all over this though!

have you posted in the enjuns section? Might be worth a shot?
Click to expand...

Yeah I might try that.

Been reading up on everything I can find but all the info is for more power with turbo fitted.
Going to try and do the complete reverse proceedure but it involves a fair amount of guesswork. Hopefully the original score mark from the fuel pin will be visible so I can put the diaphram back to original but star wheel and smoke screw will be trial and error.
So far as I understand the star wheel controls fueling at zero/low boost so probably where I need to concentrate :confused::eek:
 
blue beasty said:
Yeah I might try that.

Been reading up on everything I can find but all the info is for more power with turbo fitted.
Going to try and do the complete reverse proceedure but it involves a fair amount of guesswork. Hopefully the original score mark from the fuel pin will be visible so I can put the diaphram back to original but star wheel and smoke screw will be trial and error.
So far as I understand the star wheel controls fueling at zero/low boost so probably where I need to concentrate :confused::eek:
Click to expand...

Sounds logical to me.

Got to ask though why you have no turbo?
 
BIG_GINGA_BEARD said:
Sounds logical to me.

Got to ask though why you have no turbo?
Click to expand...

Few reasons

Pain in the arse to fit into a 6 pot engine bay
Don't really want 115+bhp through Series running gear
Drum brakes :eek:
It's a set up I know works well for the kind of work she has to do

jamesmartin said:
have you read this it tells you all youd need with pics http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Tuning_Land_Rover_Tdi_engines_Rev_2.pdf
Click to expand...

Yes thanks....among many others. Doesn't quite tell me what I need to know but understanding how it works helps a lot
 
Success! :D

If anyone's interested and for future reference wot I did wuz........

Marked the position of everything as I took it apart and making assumptions from the link above....

Backed off the star wheel 1/2 a turn, re-essembled and tested, backed off another 1/4, 3/4's of a turn in total (assumed 1 whole turn on original tweak).

The original fuel pin score mark was still clearly visible giving the original diaphram position....(dimple at 9 'o'clock from driver side wing) and had been moved to 1'o'clock.....I repositioned at 10'o'clock.

Backed off smoke screw 1 1/2 turns, tried it, backed it off another 1/2 a turn.

Yet to be tested hard but the engine seems to barely smoke under load and still feels a little more 'bouyant' than the standard pump settings. Though I can only compare it with my old, slightly ropey engine.

So assuming a 'standard tweak' of 1 turn of star wheel, 120' diaphram and 2 turns of smoke screw my non-turbo 200 has had a slight.....25%ish tweak and is running well :)
 
Sounds good, from what I learnt in a Bosch manual, the star wheel only affects the point at which the boost fuel kicks in from turbo pressure. The diaphragm position would have a large effect for you as well as the screw.

Good to see its working though
 
davek0974 said:
Sounds good, from what I learnt in a Bosch manual, the star wheel only affects the point at which the boost fuel kicks in from turbo pressure. The diaphragm position would have a large effect for you as well as the screw.

Good to see its working though
Click to expand...

Just to conclued this thread for future reference dave is absolutely correct :eek:

Top screw and diaframe position are what effects fueling on a non-turbo engine.

For a non-turbo with a pump that has not been tweeked an increase in responsiveness can be got by c/w screwing of the screw and turning the diaframe though not by the amounts described for a turbo fitted engine.

Judging from the score marks the original setting on the diaframe was 9'o'clock and I now have it set at 11'o'clock.......top screw set at 1 turn clockwise from assumed original position.

Slight amount of smoke under heavy load but much more torquey feel
 
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