EAS over heat and cure

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JohnnyCrash

JohnnyCrash

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after putting the cover back on my EAS in 2 days I had 3 faults :mad:

so guess I'm in the club of the over heaters! not just wanting to drill a few holes and hope, I thought I'd be better off fitting small fans to pull out the hot air drawing in cooler air.

this is what I have so far




now just have to wire them up so where to go?? I could go to the EAS compressor, but this would only run when the compressor is running (not ideal) what I want is to switch it when the ignition is live.


19497d1288781624-heated-front-screen-not-working-fuse-box.jpg


so take a feed from terminal 30 on relay 7 and the other from terminal 85 on relay 6 then just check with your fans to work out if you have them on suck or blow :D

I ran out of light and had a cold beer in the fridge calling, so will finish off tomorrow
 
JohnnyCrash said:
after putting the cover back on my EAS in 2 days I had 3 faults :mad:

so guess I'm in the club of the over heaters! not just wanting to drill a few holes and hope, I thought I'd be better off fitting small fans to pull out the hot air drawing in cooler air.

this is what I have so far




now just have to wire them up so where to go?? I could go to the EAS compressor, but this would only run when the compressor is running (not ideal) what I want is to switch it when the ignition is live.


19497d1288781624-heated-front-screen-not-working-fuse-box.jpg


so take a feed from terminal 30 on relay 7 and the other from terminal 85 on relay 6 then just check with your fans to work out if you have them on suck or blow :D

I ran out of light and had a cold beer in the fridge calling, so will finish off tomorrow
Click to expand...

If your compressor gets so hot as to effect the driver pack. Your compressor is knackered or feeding a leak and your driver pack ain't too well either.
 
Computer fans damn near all use the same air flow. That is

Air flow -> Front|Motorside/rear -> Airflow

Now you can get much thinner fans which personally would look nicer than a standard chassis fan. You could even mount them inside the EAS box then put a decent mesh over the bore hole so it looks more OEM.

I have a 80mm fan from Zalman running in a SFF case which is about 10mm thick (the fan, not the case), Scythe make a 120mm fan which is 12mm thick. They can also be run on 5v or 12v, which gives you more options. 5v would extend life of the fan but obviously come at a cost less air shifted.

[edit: You might notice PC fans come with 3 cables, this is to allow a crude fan control system, when running hot it gets all 12v, under normal conditions it pumps 5v. IIRC, red is 5v, yellow is 12v and black is earth. But do take not that some fans require more than 5v to spool up, so running it on a 5v source will cause damage, always check the specs of your fans first.]
 
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If i was doing that personally would just vent the back of the EAS box and fit a pipe from the front into the bottom side of the air box. No need for fans the engine intake air would vent it automatically.
 
That would also be a much easier way to do it. Don't have to bother finding a power source, no added complications. Just a length of hose, some silicon sealant and a hole saw. Jobs a gooden.
 
Semi conductors can become heat sensitive with age, nothing to do with compressors overheating. As the box is designed, the heat is trapped in the top of the box. IMO fans are not required, just some vent holes, it's done the trick on mine and saved me replacing the driver pack for the moment.
Those 2 fans are overkill and they are unlikely to survive IMO in the underbonnet environment. A single 50/60mm CPU cooler fan fitted on the inside would do the job if you really wanted to use a fan.
Wammers link to the airbox is a good idea for forced air cooling.
 
I have been running the last 1000 miles on manual valves as i had a height sensor break away from chassis and giving eas fault and incorrect ride height.
I disconnected driver pack and compressor motor so as not to run but I also found that the box was getting quite hot without any of the electrics running after an hours driving so drilling holes in the side of the box might also let heat into box
 
ovalandrover said:
I have been running the last 1000 miles on manual valves as i had a height sensor break away from chassis and giving eas fault and incorrect ride height.
I disconnected driver pack and compressor motor so as not to run but I also found that the box was getting quite hot without any of the electrics running after an hours driving so drilling holes in the side of the box might also let heat into box
Click to expand...

If something is capable of heating to 120 degrees C any air flow below that temp is good air flow. But under normal driving conditions the only work the driver pack should be doing is moving the car between standard and motorway height as needed. Plus of course the front axle equalisation each time the vehicle speed falls below 1 MPH. If you drive around all day below 50 MPH the only time the driver pack is used at all is when the vehicles stops in traffic. Other than that it is on standby unless you have a leaky system.
 
wammers said:
If something is capable of heating to 120 degrees C any air flow below that temp is good air flow. But under normal driving conditions the only work the driver pack should be doing is moving the car between standard and motorway height as needed. Plus of course the front axle equalisation each time the vehicle speed falls below 1 MPH. If you drive around all day below 50 MPH the only time the driver pack is used at all is when the vehicles stops in traffic. Other than that it is on standby unless you have a leaky system.
Click to expand...
Unless one or more of the transistors starts to break down when hot, they are rated at 85C.
 
Grit Valve:
Yes, they are just regular PC case fans, costing a total of £2!!

Bix:
Yes, I have some very thin cooling fans knocking around somewhere and in the future plan on fitting them to the underside of the lid and some nice chrome grilles on the top, but for now these will do :)


Ovalandrover:
Regardless of the air being warm or cool without a fan or ducting the air is almost static and once heat starts to build up in the box it wouldn't take long to overheat.


Tomcat59alan:
I have no problem other than too much heat causing issues on an old component, removing the heat is the solution and not disguising anything more sinister. The fans are on the large side but as they were to hand and very very cheap, they will do for now, think of it as a MK1 and lid fan MK2 is to follow soon. Fitting a new driver pack or second hand you will eventually encounter the same issue?

Wammers:
I have no leaks and the compressor isn’t running constantly, I have an LED indicator to tell me when the compressor is running as my hearing is so poor. I have bags that are less than 2 years old and the block was rebuilt around the same time. I have no reason to cast any doubt over the compressor as the car will rise from access (or bump stops if I’ve had a fault) very very quickly indeed. Just last month I left the car in std height and after 2 week holiday there wasn’t a drop in height.


Data:
Thanks, seems a quick search on this subject and it’s happened to a few people. I have also seen many EAS boxes with missing lids when I was viewing to buy, the reason has only just become clear.
 
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i personally think the reason for the hot temps in the eas box was the down to the crazy temps we have had this summer and lack of cool air getting under the bonnet my eas threw a hissy fit on a really hot day outside temps high 20s a few days later when i went to run the software on a much cooler day it drove fine with no probs so i drilled a few holes in the lid prob solved never happened again just my two peneth worth
 
tomcat59alan said:
Makes me wonder why fans were not fitted as standard then :)
Click to expand...

A quick search and some common sense will give you that information, but save you some time…

This happens around the 10 year mark, so do you really think LR give a sh*t about your 10 year old problem?? and as it will not affect the younger model so they have no need to worry!! Look at the L322 the EAS is in the boot and not next to a roasty toasty engine!!
 
I must admit there is no harm in his invention was better to drill the holes or even better with wammers invention but come on good effort Johnny
I must admit one very hot day I did go out in the car and it just flashed at me I assume it eat the heat to never happened again
 
wammers said:
Then it's time for a new driver pack. Not fitting a bloody great fan to mask the situation.
Click to expand...
Components rated at 85C, compressor running temperature up to 120C underbonnet temperatures in the 80'sC, heat trapped in the top of the box, recipe for problems with anything electronic, less a case of disguising a fault as giving the components a better chance of surviving.:)
New driver packs would, I guess, be likely to be a good few years old.
 
JohnnyCrash said:
A quick search and some common sense will give you that information, but save you some time…

This happens around the 10 year mark, so do you really think LR give a sh*t about your 10 year old problem?? and as it will not affect the younger model so they have no need to worry!! Look at the L322 the EAS is in the boot and not next to a roasty toasty engine!!
Click to expand...
But the EAS will be a swimming pool in a few years
 
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